In the far north of Argentina, almost at the border with Bolivia (save for the next province of Jujuy) lays the Province of Salta. The capital city, called Salta as well, nestles against the foothills of the Andes at about 1.200 meters altitude.
As Salta is said to be the most beautiful province of Argentina, one plans an exploratory visit of a few days...and so I did.
It did not start out to well: on the eve of my departure, riding the subway and transferring from one line to another at Station Cathedral, which involves walking through a few tunnels, I felt a few wet drips on the back of my feet - ah, leaks from the roof? No, sprayed by thieves.
I went into 'guard the handbag' mode, and my friend and I tried to wipe the stinky white gloop of each others backs and clothes, whilst keeping a weary eye on the surroundings and a good grip on our bags. Not enough...
With lightening speed, a young man confronted me, looked me right into my eyes, grabbed the front of my necklace (where the pendant hangs), tore the whole thing off in a split second, and then careened down the tunnel stairs in a flash. His mates, which doubled as concerned citizens, pointed to the exit where 'policia' would be located (good luck - none there) and explained the 'dripping ceiling'. However, I recognized one of the pitying pedestrians as the 'delaying' partner, who stopped to get the spray can out of his backpack just before we were targeted.
I found Policia Federal near my exit station later. Their reaction consisted of a polite 'sorry' and some shrugged shoulders and a 'Buenos Aires is becoming a dangerous city'. But - these incidents are so numerous, nobody does anything about them...or even take special note.
Well, being robbed once apparently is not enough...
During that evening's Milonga (we were headed for a dance, no sense going back home) one Dutch tourist mentioned that he was targeted seven times during visits the last eight years. I guess, there will be more to come for me???
Off to Salta. Up at the crack of dawn. Radio taxi despatcher warned me NOT TO COME DOWN AND WAIT IN MY LOBBY until the driver rings the bell and identifies himself. Advice well taken.
Five a.m. at the airport, where the nice check in lady from Aerolineas Argentinas advised us, after she handed us the boarding passes, that the previous two flights to Salta were cancelled and ours may not depart either. Heavy storms in Salta knocked out the radar systems on Salta airport: no one knows when they will be fixed. Too many mountains to safely fly in without radar.
Three hours later, we left - on a different aircraft than the one originally scheduled. The first one encountered unspecified 'technical difficulties' and was withdrawn from service.
Announcements came in Spanish and English, although the latter with an Argentinian twist, which makes it hard to understand. For instance 'Fasten Seatbelts' sounds more like 'Fatten Seatbells' (Argentinians drop their es-ses) and all the English announcements were an incomprehensible joy to behold.
But - Aerolineas Argentina still provides lunch boxes free of charge on their domestic flights - wow!
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| Aeroparque Jorge Newberry in Buenos Aires, the airport on the Rio Plata, next door to Palermo. The high rise in the background stands almost beside the apartment building where I live. |
Salta obviously had suffered some heavy rains, mud in the streets, washed out curbs, fallen trees on the roadside during our drive to town...And it was still overcast and drizzly.
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| Salta Cathedral in slight drizzle... |
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| Plaza Mayor, with its obligatory equestrian statue. Pigeons decorate horse and rider |
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| One of the oldest colonial cities in Argentina, as well as the second largest city in the country, Salta retains much of its colonial and post colonial architecture |
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| Maidens underneath an equestrian statue in the Main Square |
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| Seeking shelter...from the drizzle |
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| Red and black...the colours of the provincial flag, symbolizing blood and mourning resulting after the great battle of Salta two hundred years ago. |
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| The fertile valleys around Salta produce corn, soja, fruit and vegetables. Fresh Figs, mangos, oranges, apples, grapes and peaches are sold at every corner... |
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| Hernando de Lerma, founder of the city of Salta, also gave his name to the valley surrounding Salta |
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| Before starting the 'official tour' of the City of Salta, we stop at one of the dozens of local eateries and drinkeries along Balcare Street. The menu gives advance notice, that we are now in the Andean region of this continent, and instead of beef, Llama makes it onto the menu of the local BBQs |
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| Salta brews its own beer, negro y rubia - dark and blond - and it is delicious, especially when taken together with one of the famous Salta empanadas. |
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| On the neck of the beer bottle, a tiny picture of a Salteno gaucho, with his typical chaps of cow hide. These chaps are large pieces of leather, which protect the wearer from the thorny environment of cacti strewn high plains. |
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| Church towers give witness to the strong catholic influence which arrived with the first settlers. |
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| First the Cross...then the conquerors... |
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| Flamboyant colour schemes adorn church facades. |
Next instalment...exploring the city and it's surrounding hills....hasta manana! Off to yet another tango afternoon first before telling about the next adventure of Salta.
