Monday, April 28, 2014

21 April 2014, Murano near Venice, Italy

Rainy Murano Morning


Murano, like Venice, is built on stilts - some of the buildings are listing and need to be supported

A dog's day on Murano Canals

When thinking of Murano one thinks blown glass: pendants, ear rings, souvenir figurines, glass beads etc. But, there are more products coming out of these glass blowing factories than the ones one may buy in a souvenir shop.
For instance, the cladding of the Sagrada Familia church spires in Barcelona is covered with Murano glass to give it luminescence and sparkle. Thousands of chandeliers and light fixtures found all over the world are made here. Bowls, jars and mammoth sized ornaments are created here – all in multi-hued masses of glass.
Prices range from a couple of Euros for a trinket, to 14,000 Euros for an ‘artistic’ creation bearing a famous designer’s name. Subjects range from the ridiculous to the sublime, from trash to ‘hard to understand’ contemporary museum pieces.
All capture the imagination, all are intriguing – some are tempting. So I bought a little pendant which almost shines like an Opal when moved under a light source. But – there was no extravagant expenditure involved…
And here a few examples of Murano Glass…

Baptism Font



Bowl with shell design

A couple of thousand Euros buys this fish

14,000 Euros buys a pornographically inspired centre piece candelabra, made up of several glass ladies in compromising positions 

Museum piece


I visited Murano via Vaporetto, the local floating public transport, during consistent chilly drizzle with the result, that the little town instead of brimming with tourists was almost deserted. Despite getting soaked, I walked along the pleasant canals past dozens of glass blowing factories, still closed shops and restaurants, but with barge borne garbage collection in full swing. I entered a church which happened to be preparing for a baptism, and found another treasure. The entire floor of the church was covered in antique mosaics, mostly looking like permanent Persian carpets in terms of design. But amongst the decorative segments were dozens of depictions of animals, birds and flowers. Nothing on the outside of the church, which was a simple structure with the obligatory leaning bell tower, would make one suspect the beauty inside.
Floor Mosaic



The Saint is resting above the Altar....


Murano Glass Church Chandelier

Church in Murano with Floor Mosaics

20 April 2014, Ravenna, Italy

Ravenna Cathedral

Winged Lions - detail of Basilika wall

Tomb of an Empress - filled with mosaics inside

As many times before, I let Ravenna’s mosaics speak for themselves.
Ravenna was the Roman Empire for quite a while, and its close ties with Byzantium are evident in these magnificent pieces of art. As fresh as if they were created yesterday, the mosaics tell biblical stories of Old and New  Testament, depict emperors and their courts in splendid regalia, give witness to historic architecture, present a wide ranging collection of fauna and flora of the times, show abstract decorations and representations of heaven and earth.





All the above mosaics are details of the Empresse's Tomb

Easter Sunday in Ravenna, the churches are closed to visitors in the morning due to Easter Masses being celebrated by the Catholic Faithful.  After mass, visitors could enter and not only admire the stunning mosaics, but a profusion of flower arrangements, which adorned the interior for the festive day. Due to the limited access, many regular tourists must have stayed away, as the mosaic sites were empty, without time consuming line ups as well as no time limitations once inside some of the smaller venues.

Byzantine Empress Theodora, Prostitute, Actress, Ruler, Reformer, Fashion Model, Renown Beauty




Justinian, Byzantine Emperor, Husband to Theodora


This was my second visit to Ravenna. Should I ever return I know where I will be heading….back to the mosaics, where I will find a place to sit and wonder in awe to embark onto a journey into the past.
Ancient Flip Flops

The Three Magi





Saturday, April 26, 2014

19 April 2014, Korcula, Croatia


A little peninsula, enclosed by fortress walls

Korcula

Just of the Dalmatian Coast lies the small island of Korcula, known as the greenest of the Adriatic. The Greeks settled here during the 6th century B.C. Croats and Venetians arrived later. Marco Polo is said to have been born here. The town of Korcula is built on a small peninsular, which one may circumnavigate on foot in about twenty minutes. It is enclosed by fortified walls, which were erected during the 15th century to protect against invading Greeks and Turks.
Venice was here...

Town Square

Winged Lion of Venice

Stepping into History

Emblem of the Double Headed Eagle
 

The Island has been ‘discovered’ by present day tourists, and some of its historic buildings have been modernised and house upscale hotels and dozens of restaurants and shops, which make for an interesting melange when combined with original medieval, renaissance and baroque buildings and churches dating back several centuries.

Saint with Slavic Features


 

For the shoppers – handmade original design filigree jewelry would top the list. It is still crafted by descendants of artisans who started the designs five hundred years ago.
Jewellery Designer at WOrk

One of his creations - a filigree ring with coral
 
However, the local wine, lace and embroidery, as well as stone carvings are worthy of attention. Cucarin, a local bakery, is famous all over the world for its concoctions made with various kinds of nuts – definitely worth every calorie!!
Marco Polo lived here - they say...

Cuarin, the bakery lady! No Euros accepted here, one has to pay with local currency, the Kuna, else the 'inspectors' descend upon her shop.

View across the Bay...