Tuesday, March 29, 2011

26 March 2011 - Noche en Vela

Note: alignment of pages is off - but cannot fix it..my apologies ahead of time. During Noche en Vela, inspired by White Night in Paris, Buenos Aires joins Paris, Madrid, Toronto, St. Petersburg, Berlin, Riga, Rome and many others in a Night of Culture and 'Lights Out'. A global extinguishing of public illumination for a duration of sixty minutes symbolizes an effort to conserve energy. Sufficient cause for a city - wide all night party. The City of Buenos Aires published a booklet, summarizing the events that occur at more than 150 different locations n Downtown, Villa Lugano, Barrancas, Palermo, Recoleta and La Boca. Even the Zoo is putting on a night visit to watch nocturnal animals. The Botanical Garden converted into an open theatre. A map of El Centro, with location for artistic performances cross-referenced to an extensive program. And that is in addition to all the bars and restaurants remaining open for business until 6 a.m. I spent the time to drink another cafecito reading up on all the events in the most famous of all Buenos Aires Cafes - The Tortoni. Book signings, shows, Japanes drummers, Argentinian Pop artists, tango, multi media shows, Divine Comedy in Palacio Bardolo, church services, light shows, art galleries, planetarium, craft markets...and more and more and more. Another cafecito at the El Gato Negro, another historic literary hang out, on Ave Corrientes, and I decided that one of the folkloric shows happened literally on my front door. El Gato Negro ios not only a cafe, but a herb, spice and tea shop of grand proportions. Shelves are lined with glass jars, each containing exocitc ingredients to season the most unusual dishes. Avenida Corrientes was - of course - closed to traffic. One could wander for blocks in the middle of the usually jammed artery. El Obelisco providing a good compass to find one's way back to the next Subte station. Chicago in Buenos Aires Every City needs an Edelweiss, German Schnitzels made from Argentinian Beef. The less clothing the actors wear (at least the female ones) the more popular the Revue. Elena Roger (star of the musical Evita as performed in London 2006, as well as starring role as Edith Piaf) Same stage on which Placido Domingo performed, almost the same crowds packing the area in front of the stage. El Obelisco - still lit up. But candles were already distributed to passers by. One needs these around with such a large crowd .... Tango shows all night, inside and out. The open air milonga would start at 4 a.m. - just when Portenos wake up to the previous day Everybody applauds the latest performance, except the dog who was more interested in the audience than the star. The dog scampered about on the most lovingly constructed doggie wheelchair, and appeared to enjoy life as much on two legs as he must have done previously on four. The off-side of the Obelisco (away from the concerts) was a scene of permanent grid-lock. Los Cardones, Folkloric dinner/show restaurant across the street from my apartment. Since late afternoon they had moved chairs and tables onto the closed street and set up a dinner/beer/whatever theatre outside. No chance of going to sleep before 6 a.m. anyway...a large stage effectively blocked the entire width of the street. The entrance hall to my apartment building is lit up - as usual. The caretaker kept guard and at the same time enjoyed the performances from his command post. Recetionistas to the restaurant Traditional Pampas music.. contemporary folk music...



and dancing (including restaurant revellers and passers-by) until the wee hours of the morning. I heard the last few hours of music from my bed...easier on the ears that way.

Monday, March 28, 2011

Buenos Aires - 35 Years Memorial and Placido Domingo

24 March 2011 - Argentina commemorates a dark chapter of it's history: the 35th Anniversary of the Military Coup, that started years of terror for Argentinians. 30.000 people 'disappeared' into detention, torture-chambers and death. This night, tens of thousands of Portenos took to the streets and avenues leading to Plaza Mayo, the political heart of Buenos Aires and Argentina. In front of the illuminated pink facade of Casa Rosada, the seat of government, a dense crowd waved banners, flags, posters and chanted commemorative slogans or just wandered about, kids on shoulders, to participate in the Manifestation of Solidarity. The 'Madres de Plaza Mayo', a group of women whose children, husbands or relatives were amongst the Disappeared, usually demonstrate on the Plaza every Thursday - seeking justice for the survivors and judgement for the perpetrators - some of whom still at liberty sip their cafecitos and remain beyond punishment for their crimes. Now the Madres of Plaza Mayo are known at the 'Abuelas de Plaza Mayo' (Grandmothers of May Plaza)- time marches on... The National Holiday commemorating the sad events of the past effectively closed all avenues leading to Plaza Mayo. They were, instead, packed with pedestrians - peaceful, if outspoken and chanting, despite the theme of the demonstration. Avenida Mayo was one of those closed Avenues. It leads along a number of city blocks adorned with the most impressive Belle Epoque buildings to Avenida 9 de Julio, Buenos Aires version of the Champs Elysee - except a few times wider, making it the widest Avenue in the World. There a different crowd was gathering, one that had awaited the on-again-off-again free open air recital of the famed Spanish Tenor: Placido Domingo. More street closures - this time radiating outwards from the iconic Obelisco, where almost everything of importance takes place. Avenida 9 de Julio had turned into a theatre the size of five city blocks across it's entire impressive width. A 16 meter high stage rose to one side of the Obelisco, 22.000 plastic chairs were lined up in neat rows inside a 'special enclosure', behind it thousands of people started to look for their spot either bringing their own banquitas, some of which were brought all the way from far away houses in the Campo. One could buy a 'banquito' 20 pesos from the ever present street vendors. Hearing the concert a few blocks from the stage was made possible by a sound system that extended along the Avenue and gigantic overhead screens allowed a close up image of the singers. Many people had travelled from the interior of Argentina to experience this once in a life time event, which almost did not take place. Musicians on strike, ergo one planned performance in the elegant historic Teatro Colon was cancelled, albeit the second open air performance made it past those difficulties. But, the weather did not co-operate for the original concert date (23 March as not to interfer with the Dia de Memoria), it rained buckets. By 8 p.m. about 120.000 people had gathered enjoying a perfect Buenos Aires evening. Four Orchestras (Teatro Colon, Filarmonica de B.A., Sinfonia National and Sinfonia de La Plata) and the Coro de Teatro Colon had joined forces, conducted by Eugene Kohn (USA). And of course the fabled Maestro himself, Placido Domingo. Virginia Tolo, an Argentinian Soprano of renown, wold accompany him during the duets. The Headline Next Day.... Passion would be the operative (pun intended) word to describe the reaction of the multitude, when the the first notes of El Cid (Massenet) floated through the night, Domingo ready in a black suit, and the applause and shouts of 120.000 people verberating along the Avenue. As impressive as it is to hear that kind of crowd cheer, the more impressive it is when that kind of crowd falls utterly silent. (traffic was only faintly noticeable on Cordoba Street - 5 blocks away) Charpentier, Wagner, Verdi, Giordano arias and duets rang out - Placido, despite his 70 years, still has command over an incomparable voice. Virginia Tolo, the young soprano, complemented his to perfection. Intermission - and for a lighter part of the program. It started with a slight delay, when Bomberos (Firefighters) and Ambulances screamed through a narrow lane along 9 de Julio, sirens at full blast and horns blaring. Conductor stopped in mid stroke, Domingo and Tolo shrugged their shoulders, and when quiet returned brought the crowd to it's feet again with operetta arias and a Fair Lady rendition. However, the attendees really went viral, when at 11 p.m. two hours into the concert, Domingo sang tango accompanied by four bandeoneros. Titles like Volver, A media Luz moved the crowd to emotional response. When finally he sang Mi Buenos Aires Querido, the street must have been trembling with the applause. Of course, no concert by Domingo would be complete without is trademark rendition of Granada. The last tango El dia que me quieras was the official Good Bye, and 120.000 throats shouted deafening bravos and double the number of hands clapped frenetic applause for minutes. The Clarin's Review the next day Crowds around the Obelisco.

Thursday, March 24, 2011

A Day on the Campo



Heading for San Antonio de Areco for an overnight stay in the Campo, the country.




My bus ticket (return) for the 1 hour 45 min journey cost 68 pesos, 17 Can Dollars. The Retiro was a hub of activity at the loading docks. Almost a hundred bays, and a constant coming and going of buses from and to all over South America. These buses draw into their assigned bay, stop long enough to get everyone aboard, and then draw out again.
Apart from being on Argentinian Departure time (somewhat delayed) everything runs with almost military precision and racing speed.




Dozens of overhead screens, just like in aiports, advise of the latest gates for arrival and departures.



After being dropped at Areco's bus station following a few intermediate stops, I asked about direction to the 'centro'.
Five blocks to the Historical Center Plaza. It felt almost like a five kilometer trek in the desert, as the midday sun had reached it's zenit, and even shady streets felt like tunnels through a furnace.
The Antigua Casona, a bed and breakfast, had been noted as a good place to stay, so I headed for it.
A historic facade, with a couple wrought iron covered windows and a locked wooden carved door: Ring the bell, it said.
So I did, and was welcomed by the owner.

They had room for one person for one night - Monday is a slow day.

Charming courtyard furnished with wrought iron tables and chairs, lush with greenery and relatively cool, and backing onto a two hundred year old brickwall with built in asada (BBQ)
Tiled outside terrace, which turned out to be my proverbial downfall.

The breakfast room


The kitchen passage way - to my room in the background.


My room - after I succumbed to a siesta.


The bathroom
I take it! One night for 150 Pesos (about 37 Dollars) with breakfast in the morning.
As soon Is I stepped out from the wooden floorboards of the house onto the straw mat on the polished tiles outside, the straw mat turned into a speed skate and I found myself looking up at the brick and beam ceiling sheltering the porch.
My shin developed a baseball sized second knee, just below the original one. Within seconds. I thought the skin would burst stretching over this marvel of subcutaneous explosion.
Here goes my tango and here goes my wandering about historic Areco, I thought.
I had never seen anything so grotesque and it hurt!
Well, one drinks a glass of water, checks for any broken huesos (bones) - negative. I took a photo of this thing, but out of respect for reader's delicate sensibilities I won't publish it.
I could walk, and postponed the offered icepack for later, so walk I did.

Of course, being siesta time, all was closed. These photos were taken after the town rose again from its midday stupor.

Saddle frames in a leather craftsman's shop


Hand crafted mate bombillas with silver adornments



A silver smith's work shop beside his show room


The only cafe/restaurant open during siesta time.
I treated myself to a Quilmes cerveza here to cool down the inner burnings of my external injury.
Then for some serious exploration of this wonderful little relic left over from a couple of centuries ago.

San Antonio de Areco - Architecture



Some say, that Areco is one of the most attractive towns in the Pampas. The cobble stoned streets are lined with historic buildings, some meticulously maintained, others falling into slight disrepair. All give the town an air of changeless permanence.




Shady hall ways lead into cool gardens.



Some shady streets





others are like a furnace in the mid day heat




The silver smiths residing in town are famous for their fine handcrafted knifes, jewellery, and silver horse tack


The Parish Church, founded by Franciscan Monks, still strikes its bell every hour.


Reconstruction work on facade and sidewalk



Deconstruction work...


Municipal Building





Entrance to one of the Posadas (hotels)


Antique Store


Local Radio Station broadcasting evening news


Deserted streets early evening


Social Services Building


Interior of Parish Church


Tile floor in Parish Church


Parish Church



Convenience Store and Cafe


Shelves stacked with dusty bottles in one of the many old stores


Interior of a Parilla - BBQ Steak Restaurant


Corner Cafe