Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Once more San Telmo...10 more days before the big Ciao!


Buenos Aires has not yet recovered from Franciscomania, but things are getting back to normal - whatever that means here in Argentina. The usual Breakdowns, Strikes, Work Stoppages, Service Outages, Break Ins and Robberies, Political Strife, Demonstrations carry on regardless.
One perceives a small difference in the political arena after an abrupt change of propaganda by the Kirchneristas, the Peronista party in power under La Presidenta Kristina: after initially taking a definite contra stance against the new Argentinian Pope, depreciating whistles and all in the house of assembly, we see now a newly created 'alliance of hope' by order of same President. This little - but weighty change - has created a first crack in the solidly united front of the government in power, who had previously vigorously denounced the developments in the Vatican.
Some call is blatant opportunism, as not liking El Papa from El Fin del Mundo (Argentina) is equivalent to losing a huge congregation of future votes from the largest part of the population who is positively in love with him - not a good thing with mid term elections coming up soon for La Kristina.
Not El Papa's home parish, but here is San Telmo's cathedral.
The Basilica of Saint Josef in the district of Flores organized a large procession last night to honour their well loved old Parish Priest. Fireworks ensued.

Entry to La Scala of San Telmo, a little cafe/theatre which offers not only cafecitos con media lunas, but little chamber concerts... 

Well, if not into tango shoes, one can buy old wooden shoe forms for a much lesser price than the real thing. The $ sign actually means pesos.
For the fortunate ones, who arrive here with US Dollars in cash, that means a ratio of 1 dollar to 8.40 pesos at the local 'consultorios'/black market exchange locations - as of this morning.
After the government put another tax (20%) on any travel outside Argentina as of now, hitting vacation packages as well as credit card purchases outside Argentina, the locals are willing to pay an almost 65% premium over the official bank rate to squirrel away US dollars for their future vacations.
ATM rate is still 5.10 pesos to 1 Dollar US....neither locals nor visitors can BUY US dollars at that price at any bank. But foreigners arriving without US cash in hand, can only withdraw PESOS from their home bank accounts at the official rate.
Local tourism industry is expecting a slump.

Street vendor in front of her wall art space.

Pre-Pope Francisco T-Shirts...now Francisco shirts abound, and sell out in a flash.

And there is always Tango...

and more Tango

and more Tango

and more Filete..

and more tango on Plaza Dorrego

And more Tango as performed by the 'Old Guard'

But - Calle Defensa on a Sunday makes a stage for Jazz as well...

captivating a young audience

Caribbean sounds in San Telmo

for a Sunday afternoon listening pleasure

And why not dance on the cobble stones - tourista and homeless man...

One drinks Quilmes - por maybe Mate - to fuel the Paseo, the Stroll..

A whole tango orchestra (El Afronte) plays in a side street, even a piano made it onto the sidewalk, violins and a few bandoneons combine to accompany a very good young vocalist. He is not in the photo, as he was off passing a tango hat around the listeners to collect donations for the afternoon performance.

Intense listener...

San Telmo Cathedral steps and sidewalk make a convenient listening spot...

The sun sets earlier in the afternoons now, fall is just a couple of days away, and my departure less than two weeks hence...
Almost time to get a haircut to prepare for the long sail home to Vancouver Island.