Saturday, March 2, 2013

La Ciudad de Salta...

Don Hernande de Lerma founded the city on the 16 April 1582. The city's centre square reflects the colonial spirit of the times, Cathedral, El Cabildo (government house), the old exclusive French Club (now Cultural Centre), monuments, old wrought iron fences...all surrounded by the spread of todays city and the foothills of the Andes.
The Cathedral actually dates back to 1858, and shows a distinct late French Baroque influence.
Facade of Salta Cathedral


This Carmelite Cloister was founded in 1846.


Carmelo de San Bernardo....

Without a doubt, the most attractive and historic portal of Salta, the entry to the Carmelite Cloister...

Here a detail of the portal, which was carved by indigenous people

A few hundred meters above the City of Salta, the Cerro de San Bernardo, Saint Bernhard Peak. One may climb up 1060 steps to get to its height of 1458 meters above sea level, however reaching it by tour bus seemed a better option. If one chooses to follow the long and windy stairs, the 14 Stations of the Cross help the pilgrim up and up. Each first Saturday in May Salta celebrates the Day of the Cross, and thousands of faithful work their way up hundreds of stairs to the summit ot Cerro de San Bernardo.
The really lazy can take a cable car up to the top...

Beautiful flowers bloom in the regions of Cerro San Bernardo, a micro climate within the valley of Salta City.

Since 1968 Salta prides itself to have the first artisan market of Argentina. It is located in a 18th Century mansion, and is a perfect venue for artisans of all regions of Salta province to show and sell their product.

Monument of General Martin Miguel Guemes.
There is a street here in Palermo, Buenos Aires, named 'Guemes'. Now I know that this name belongs to a venerated general, who came from gaucho origins, and rose to historic fame by organising local gauchos into disciplined regiments to participate in a historic battle for freedom and independence from Spain a couple of hundred years ago. Gauchos were the natural guerrillas of the time, as they knew the territory intimately...and having seen Saltena landscape, local knowledge was certainly absolutely necessary to enable any troops to survive and overcome any enemy.
Unfortunately Guemes met an early end, by being murdered by royalist assassins.
Despite his early departure, he is recognized as a national hero, and each 16 June, more than 5000 present day gauchos of Salta region come to pay homage. Mounted on their horses, they conduct a parade, which is one of the most traditional of the province.
Efforts are underway to declare the 16 June as yet another national holiday...

The monument to Guemes, on his horse and looking towards the East - direction of the enemy's approach....now watched by one of the many street dogs of Salta

A little cafe near the Cerro San Bernardo, and located in the Quedabra of San Lorenzo, is decorated with huge ceramic urns.

A sample of offerings in the Mercado Artesanal....

Ponchos...with the Saltena Poncho being second from the right: black and red....

A sample of embroidery on one of the many different offerings...

Breezeway of the Mercado Artesanal, witness to the luxury of long ago colonial wealth....

Salta at night, not only lit up to present its architecture at its romantic best, but to invite visitors and locals alike to its definitely lively night life.

Balderama, a 'boliche historico', a historic bar. It dates back a long time, and provided a stage for well known Saltenos like Los Chalchaleros, Mercedes Sosa, Chaqueno Palavecino, Dino Saluzzi amongst many others. Dinner (of Argentine tender loin - not to be missed) at 9 p.m. and show somewhat 'later'. Do not expect to get home much before 2 a.m., and even then, things are still in full swing.

Salteno playing his mini guitar, which gives a unique sound....

Being close to the Andes, Bolivia, Paraguay and Peru...the pan flute features prominently in local music, famous all over Argentina and the world.

High kicking gaucho performing a 'Chacarena'

Gaucho performing a 'zapateo', a fast sequence of stamping and jumping, designed to reflect the fast beats of galloping horses...and as a side effect, impress the doncellas - the girls.

One thing that seems to be the same around the world...people lose their dogs and post little notices around the neighbourhood.
On the way back to the hotel (by the way a very pretty little historic building with only six rooms) there was one of those 'missing dog' posters.
'I got lost in San Lorenzo, my family is sad, I call myself Bartolo, and I am a grey pit bull. Reward offered...

Well, a good welcome to Salta....
Tomorrow for a drive into the High Plains, getting ready for the 4000 meter and up altitudes....