Sunday, February 24, 2013

Palermo...daily life

Summer in Palermo, not the one in Italy, but the one in Buenos Aires. Regardless of economic, social and political ups and downs, daily life goes on. Portenos shop, eat, drink Mate, ride the subways, smoke and converse, converse, converse. One enjoys sitting under shady trees, watching the world walk by and sipping a gaseosa (soft drink) or a 'cortado' (small strong coffee) with a couple of 'media lunas' (croissants)....

A typical side walk cafe/bistro in the district of Palermo

Russel Passage in Palermo

Every so often, old wall paintings are freshened up with a new version of the latest artistic expression

One encounters some remarkable works of street art in Palermo

One also encounters some surprising shop displays...Palermo prides itself of a high concentration of fashion designers...

Interior design stores are plentiful, designs are avant garde and minimalist

Valentine's day is not that far in the past, and some wall art commemorates 'Amor'

Some pavement stones commemorate a sadder time in Argentine History ....the 'Disappeared' during their Dirty War. Here a plaque in front of my building, where one of the victims of that era was sequestered and subsequently 'disappeared'.

Amor?? Or Food Chain??

Palermo has not yet been totally overtaken by development of high rise apartment complexes - although they seem to be shooting up everywhere despite the decline in real estate market.  The new buildings replace these charming one story shops, with their historic facade, Garage doors and glassed entrance halls slowly replace mom and pop stores and famous designer boutiques of Palermo, which make up the street level part of the old street scape

At night, in the 'tavern' down the street, Los Cardones - a Saltena Pena - music starts at around 10 or 10:30 p.m. and works slowly up to the night's main feature band, which appears around 1 a.m. Music is non stop, there are no union prescribed 'rest periods'...the public joins into the singing, and dances amongst the rstaurant tables.

Being the only genuine Saltena Folklorico Tavern in town, some very well known groups turn up, and entertain a usually packed tavern until the small hours of the morning. The nice thing for me is - I only need to walk half a block to get there and back.

Early morning, and the cumple anos (birthday party) in the common room of the apartment  building next door is still in full swing, the kids are all up with their parents. No one worries about the little ones still playing with each other at 2 a.m. - saves on baby sitter expenses... 

Dawn breaks, and the dog house on the neighbouring balcony is still empty

But - another day - another protest, about 'something' ...this one at the back door of the 'Tribunales', the downtown court house.

Cristina, la Presidenta, celebrated her 60th birthday...

Here is how some of her subjects perceive their leader

And here is Angela Merkel, as depicted in the local papers
Maybe she has less to smile about than her counterpart here in Argentina???
Off to lovely Salta on Monday. Braving a couple of flights with the local airlines, which - I hope - are in a better state of repair  than the local trains. Salta is said to be one of the most spectacular Provinces of Argentina...Andean mountains, deserts, colonial cities and settlements, trains to the clouds (to 4000 meters altitude) salt flats, colourful canyons and - of course - llamas, vicunas, alpacas, gauchos, and some of the best folkloric music of the country.