Saturday, April 6, 2013

1 April 2013 Montevideo, Uruguay

Chandelier inside Montevideo's Cathedral
Club Uruguay at Plaza Constitution
Thermos bottles for Mate, leather or hide covered...
Plaza Independencia with Statue of Artigas
Palacio Salvo
Welcome to Uruguay
Equine powered garbage collection in Montevideo's street
Artigas
Parilla in Mercado del Puerto
Ships grave yard outside the port of Montevideo
Uruguayan gaucho riding a Hereford
One of the local historical heroes in battle with indigenous people
Famous Teatro Solis
Montevideo means something like 'Look Out Mountain' and indeed Bruno de Zabala, an early 18th century Buenos Aires governor, named Montevideo for a bluff behind the city, where he built a fortress to guard against pirate attacks. Plaza Zabala is dedicated to his memory.
Long before, in 1516 Juan Diaz de Solis lead the first Spanish explorers ashore here, However, first nations indigenous people were not delighted, and killed almost all members of his landing party. The Teatro Solis is named in his honour.
As with many Spanish Colonial settlements, Montevideo has its line up of national heroes: Jose Gervasio Artigas, deserved not only a monument but a black mausoleum on Plaza Independencia, the show off plaza of Montevideo. He is celebrated for his call to arms when Brazil invaded Uruguay in 1811, three years after Uruguay's independence.
Another monument honours General Juan Lavalleja, who with 33 courageous patriots returned to Uruguay in 1825 to expel invading Brazilians. The monument is aptly named Los Trenta y Tres (The Thirty Three).
The crowning architectural glory belongs to Palacio Salvo, which looks something like Palacio Bardolo in Buenos Aires - similar tower, similar balconies, similar adornments. It was built in 1920, and was then the tallest building in South America.
Lots of wars and insurrections, but geographically Uruguay is a very small country, only 176.220 sq/km, the second smallest Latin American nation after Surinam.
Instead of touring, I did my usual walkabout in the compact Old City, ending with a parilla at the Mercado del Puerto. It sounds like a market for fish, however it is now converted into a giant collection of Barbecue restaurants under one Bellas Artes style glass and wrought iron metal roof. It also is a tourist trap of impressive size and success.
A lunch, consisting of one mini chorizo sausage, a small beer and a small roquefort topped potato cost almost $35US. Compared to restaurant prices across the river Plata in Buenos Aires - outrageously overpriced. But - one enjoys taking in the local atmosphere and indulge at least ONCE in a Chorizo direct of a Uruguayan Parilla.
Despite advancing autumn 'down south' temperatures were pleasantly mild, and strolling through the city and its many attractive squares a pleasant interlude before floating off to Puerto Madryn.