Confiteria Ideal...
After my third lesson with one of the 'maestros' of tango salon, I ventured out for one of the dozens of group lessons, which are held all over the city in venues ranging from basket ball halls (Sunderland) to Confiteria Ideal (scenes of Last Tango in Paris with Marlon Brando were filmed here). I paid my lesson dues at the entrance - about $8.
However, little did I know, the lessons were merely a part of a Matinee Milonga, already in progress. Although the photo looks somewhat open spaced, dancers were crowded together like sardines moving around the polished marble floor.
Near the bar in back of the dance floor, lesson participants - arriving straight from the airport from USA, Canada or Europe - gathered to experience their first exposure to tango. I skipped that and practiced the cabecera (??head turning-eye contact-nod & smile??) and had my first contact.
Hmmm.....I still look like a tourist with my 'cerrado' shoes with low thick heels. Before stepping onto the dance floor, my dancing prospect cast one contemptive glance at those dreadful zapatos, and I could see that he regretted ever asking this woman clad in disastrous Milonga foot apparel (I) to dance. My Argentinian partner lead me around the floor, sort of, and immediatly tried to convince me to take private lessons with him, after he reassured me that I danced quite well. Now all this interchange occurs in Argentinian Spanish, which has a lot of jjjjs and che-es in it, with a lot of sss-es missing, so things are a little stumbly as it is.
I fabricated some excuse, but nevertheless, after the end of the tanda (set of dances) he sat down at the next table and kept up the marketing exercise. But, one just looks away to discourage any more advances, which were definitely not inspired by my irresistible beauty, but by my status as a foreign female.
I was luckier with my next dancer, diminuitive, but knowledgeable, and he led me around the dancefloor without any mishap or major embarassement - he even ignored my shoes!!
Well, the ice is broken....at least I will feel less intimidated for the next one.
And that was not slow in materializing. Today, I made my way to Sonia Paralda's class in Casa Galicia near Congreso, a somewhat less savoury neighbourhood. The salon, however, had a foot friendly wooden floor, as long as one could dance around the cracks between the boards, which were wide enough to swallow a few stiletto heels. Portenos ignore those unimportant hazards, and the place was packed again. I practiced and danced (cost $8 for lesson and dance) until my feet gave up.
Big Brother is watching...
There must be an election in the offing. Cristina Kirchner is still president, however the competition is mustering arms. This party is advertising it's merits and ideals with the help of long dead, but still revered by some, Juan and Evita Peron.
National Institute of Juan Peron.
This arrangment adorned the sidewalk of Avenida de Mayo
Palacio Barolo, one of the oldest, highest and most ornate buildings on Avenida de Mayo. 16 stories high. One reaches the top by way of one of those old fashioned creaky cage elevators, with wrought iron doors (manual) or via marble stairs.
Palacio Barolo, one of the oldest, highest and most ornate buildings on Avenida de Mayo. 16 stories high. One reaches the top by way of one of those old fashioned creaky cage elevators, with wrought iron doors (manual) or via marble stairs.
On the 16th floor, in the very top of the cupola is one of the tango apparel stores, Tango Moda.
For today, admiring the facade was enough for me...
It must have been soccer day. The city was innundated with fans wearing either yellow and black or blue and white shirts. I suppose the yellow and black team won, as convoys of buses, horns honking, blasted their way through the main drag, Ave 9 Julio. The yellow and black fans waved their shirts from the bus window, yelling and laughing; and police cars with their sirens blaring bracketed the line of vehicles.
Corner of Mayo and 9 Julio. One wonders, whether this is intentional decoration of just some very inventive 'graffiti art'.
Ave de Mayo was blocked of by protesters (demanding affordable housing), and this is a rare view of Mayo without bumper to bumper traffic. I walked past the protesters, did not take photos, as political 'incidents' are best ignored or avoided by foreigners. Most Portenos seem to ignore the blockade as well....except for the thousands of cars and buses, who had to be re-directed through one of the many narrow almost impassable side streets. Made for a super interesting traffic jam, nonchalantly managed by dozens of local police.
