Sunday, February 20, 2011

Domingo - Day of Rest in Buenos Aires


Oasis in the City

No BBQ at home, but Portenos take their chairs and picnics to the parks...

Marble bridges lead over serene ponds, where geese, herons and ducks roam. Each one of them unaware of the 13 Million people who live just outside the parks' boundaries...

Slighly decayed, but still showing traces of former beauty, a theatre building near the Jardin Zoologico

Filete adornments on a Viejo Coche, old carriage...

Cochero Caballo with 'airconditioning'. His head is covered with a terry towel, which is altered to accommodate his ears, and decorated with ribbons and tassles.
Here is the Viejo Cochero, feeding the abundant pidgeons, and keeping some tidbits to give to his horse, which KNOWS, that treats are forthcoming.
It's definitely a Zoo at the Zoo. Line ups stretching into the streets at ever ticket counter, with hundreds of Argentinian families on a Sunday outing. But, there are pony rides while you wait to join the throngs of people already inside the vast grounds of the Zoo. The place was packed!

Now, I wonder what that's supposed to convey to passers-by?

A stone bench is heaven for a romantic interlude...
Latina in all her glory

Paths in the park flooded from last night's rain, paradise for geese...

Pergolas in the Rosedale (Rose Garden)
Streets leading through the park are blocked off on Sundays. A veritable racing piste for cyclists, runners, scate boarders and walkers; this kid is a rarity, as hardly anybody wears helmets, kids and adults alike. And definitely no disfiguring knee and elbow protectors, that would spoil the image of casual chic...
Very few indigenuous people seem to hang out in the City, but are quite prevalent in the population of street vendors.
I have yet to see a homeless person or even a beggar. But I found a homeless dog, living in an arch under a graffiti covered railway bridge. A few plastic food containers stood beside him. Obviously someone is giving him water and food. He seemed well fed, but he was obviously aged, bled from an injury, and just had enough energy to lay motionless on his man made cardboard bed.
Part of the same Railway Bridge houses a funky Cafe with a shady terrasse. The only place I could see in the entire park system, where a Bano (Lavatory) could be found. Moral of story: only go for a walk in the park if your bladder can last the distance...
A Buenos Aires staple food item: the cafecito!
This brew comes in the smallest cups (just compare it to the size of the sugar bag), it resembles fat free thick gravy made from coffee beans, and is absolutely delicious, once disguised with a good dose of sugar (fittingly packaged in satchels with tango drawings). Portenos linger for hours over one of these micro coffees (none of the Grandes, Supersized buckets of Starbucks fame). These cafecitos pack enough caffeine to drive sleep away for HOURS, hence the ability of Portenos to start partying at 11:30 p.m. and keep it up until 05:00 a.m. in the morning - another reason for me to consider these midnight Milongas with a weary eye.
As a concession to normalcy, the small cups of coffee are ALWAYS served with a couple of cookies, a glass of orange juice, and a miniscule jug of water, all on individual saucers with napkins and each bit so tiny, just right for the Little People.
No self-respecting cafe will pressure a customer to leave, even if he takes all day over his cafecito, reading the Daily Newpaper, or a book, or conducting heated debates above the latest soccer score.
And dogs are allowed in!! One of the little fourlegged guests was finishing off all the half eaten icecream left over by everyone at the table.
Ah, Victoria on Vancouver Island....this looks almost like you!
Future World Cup contenders in training - gotta start them early!

Koi Watching...
A pleasant day to say the least wandering through vast expanses of gardens and parks.
The streets of Palermo turn a little sleepy on Sundays. Shops are closed, except - of course -cafes, bistros, bars and the odd Supermercado (usually quite small grodery stores).
Another tango lesson tomorrow - have to rest my feet beforehand! I may even become sufficiently encouraged to throw myself into an afternoon (yes, they do exist) Milonga?