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| Tenerife Coast Line |
We visited three of the seven inhabited islands of Canary:
Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote. Volcanic in nature, they are in effect an
extension of the Atlas Mountains in Northern Africa, namely Algiers and Morocco,
which are only 100 km distant from the Canary Islands.
One may assume that they are named after our beloved little
yellow Canary bird, but no – not so.
During the time, when the Guanches lived and owned the Canaries, around
200 BC, the islands were also home to a huge population of dogs (canes,
canines), who were so important to the inhabitants, that they were mummified
and worshipped.
Canines, ergo the Canary Islands are named after the almost
extinct dogs. The bird was named after the islands. The dogs, by the way, are
being re-created from present day breeds in an attempt to revive the ancient breed.
Puppies of the ‘new canine’ cost at least $700 Euros…
The Guanches were blond haired and green/blue eyed, lived in
caves and wore animal skins. Their origin is debated, but said to be Berber.
Their demise started with the arrival of the Spaniard in the 15th
century, when Guanches were enslaved, some became fugitives to other countries.
Two million people live in the Canaries, mostly in Tenerife
and Grand Canaria, site of the two largest cities: Santa Cruz and Las Palmas.
However, 12 million visitors arrive each year to enjoy perpetual spring,
spectacular landscapes, great beaches and breathtaking scenery.
Tenerife was the location of the Battle of Tenerife, where
Nelson lost his arm. The Island’s natural claim to fame is Mount Teide, a
volcano which erupted last in 1909. Mount Teide is the highest elevation of
Spain, the third highest volcano in the world as measured from sea level – 3,718
meters, and the highest when measured from the sea bed.
Agriculture thrives in Tenerife, with potatoes being one of
the most important crops. Canary Island cooks boil them, still in their skins,
slowly in sea water, which gives them a crunchy crust and a unique taste.
Another lesser known product is the beetle, which is a
parasite on prickly pears. This little bug can be converted into a bright red
dye, which is used to colour Coca-Cola and lipstick.
I enjoyed a taste of local wine and goat cheese, a
spectacular drive through craggy mountains along tightly winding roads hugging
steep cliffs, impressive seaside scenery strewn with gigantic black volcanic
rock, and a quick visit to La Laguna, a Unesco World Heritage site with cobble
stoned streets, cathedral, quaint shops, art schools, plenty of open air
restaurants and pleasant parks, replete with the emblematic Drago tree, some of
which are said to be 1500 years old.
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| Streets are swept using palm fronds... |
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| Drago Tree with Sculpture of a Fish |
Tenerife has a number of hospitals, very large, quite famous
for their specialty: organ transplants. Apparently more organ transplants are
performed here than anywhere else in Europe.
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| Mount Teide, all of 3700 meters, hiding in the clouds |
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| Village of Laguna |
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| Street in La Laguna |
Now to Grand Canaria and Las Palmas. I headed for Vegueta,
the historic district of the largest town in all the Canaries.
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| Vigueta, the historic centre of Las Palmas |
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| Cathedral Santa Ana |
Columbus is said to have lived here for a while, whilst
waiting for approval from the royals to start his various voyages to China. The
rest is – indeed – history.
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| House where Columbus allegedly stayed |
On Veguetas Main Square, in front of the twin towered
Cathedral de Santa Ana, statues of the legendary canines of Canary Island keep
vigil and serve as photo props for locals and tourists alike.
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| Canines of Canary Island |
The last Island to visit is the easternmost of all of them:
Lanzarote. Its main town of about 60,000 people is Arecife, a quiet little town
centered around El Charco, which is an inland lagoon that dries during low tide
and strands a little fleet of small fishing boats until high tide refloats them
again.
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| El Charco, the puddle, in Arecife, Lanzarote |
Cesar Manrique, world famous metal sculptor had his home
here and a museum celebrates his unique art.
Arecife was a prime pirate target in olden days. Castillo de
San Gabriel and Castillo de San Jose were built to protect the island from their
forays. Near the old capital of Lanzarote, in the village of Teguise, is
another Castillo, which now houses a pirate’s museum, and has a 360 degree view
of most of the small island from a top of an extinct volcano. Great way to spot
pirates, before they even have a remote chance of invading the island!
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| Canines of Canary Island...there were five of them riding on this scooter.. |
I headed for Teguise, which still maintains its historic
charm of white washed houses, intricate narrow cobble stoned streets lined with
tapa bars and cafes, as well as artisan shops and a few souvenir shops.
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| Teguise |
Three days, three islands….I can see why so many people want
to visit here. The islands are stunningly beautiful, albeit becoming somewhat
over populated and covered in housing developments, industrial construction,
hotels and resorts galore.
Despite being a stone throw away from Africa, Tenerife, Gran
Canaria and Lanzarote have a definitely Mediterranean ambiance.
