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| Spring in Sardinia |
Sardinia is almost as large as Sicily, but less known to
overseas visitors. We docked in Porto Torres, which albeit in existence since
2000 years is a port that distinguishes itself through its industrial age character.
Unfortunately, much of the industry has been abandoned, hence many of the
factories and refineries are idle, and are slowly succumbing to abundant growth
of weeds just like many of the roman, Byzantine and Phoenician ruins sprinkled
amongst the factories.
Sardinia is a treasure trove of ancient history, witnessed
by many archeological finds that date back more than 3000 years to the Nuraghic
Civilization, which populated this island during the Bronze and Iron Age. Many
Nuraghi, as these stone buildings and fortresses are called, dot the landscape.
Some are to this day in remarkable condition despite concentrated efforts of
local farmers, herders, builders since three thousand years to use the immense
stones for building materials and stone fences. The ‘nuraghe’ are built of
volcanic rock, which usually were formed into a central tower more than 25
meters high, surrounded by various bastions and circular towers. Their inner
courts and staircases, hallways and wells, platforms and living quarters are
immense, and singularly impressive in their construction. Domes and archways
look as if they would collapse by their own weight any minute, but have stood
up to the ravages of time since thousands of years.
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| Inside a Nuraghi |
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| Nuraghi Ceiling |
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| Many Nuraghi are still in use |
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| Old and New... |
Younger, but no less impressive are the beautifully
constructed stark Romanesque churches with their distinct black and white
colouring (lime and volcanic stone intermingled) resulting in a pleasing aspect
of otherwise stark design. Many of them were built during the first few
centuries of Christianity.
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| The 'Spotted Cows' |
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| Ceiling Construction |
I had the good fortune of visiting two of the most
representative examples, the Church of San Piedro di Sorres (11th
and 12th century) and the Basilica della Santissima Trinita di
Saccargia (11th century). Saccargia refers to the Sardinian dialect
‘sa vacca arza’, meaning spotted cow. Cows still adorn some of the columns of
this beautifully simple basilica, which was initiated by the Carnaldolese order
of the time.
Saccargia also has one of the few remaining frescoes, which
is a rare example of Romanesque mural art in Sardinia.
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| Black and White Interior |
San Piedro di Sorres on the other hand, impressed with its
pure symmetry of black and white stones and intricately designed and carved
geometric decorations on its façade. This small but beautiful church was a bishopric
until 1503.
Sardinia, although part of Italy, still maintains its
original language (not a dialect) which is closely related to ancient Latin
with Spanish and Italian words added over the centuries. Its flag originally
showed the decapitated heads of four pirates dressed in blindfolds over their
eyes, commemorating Sardinia’s victory over invading pirates, who paid for
their aggression by having their heads cut off. Modern Day political
correctness modified the image somewhat, to show the heads with headbands
instead of blindfolds. Why? Who knows...? Maybe these guys were ancient fitness
freaks, better on a treadmill and a pirate’s galleon.
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| Without Blindfolds... |
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| Original Version with Blindfolds... |
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| Definitely close to Easter... |
Sardinia, despite its name, is not a culinary hotbed for
sardines, which are considered poor man’s food and of secondary quality.
However, I tasted what is called a ‘Sardinian luncheon snack’, which consisted
of prodigious offerings of thinly sliced air dried ham of various kinds, hard
local sheep cheese, ricotta light as feathers, various air dried sliced
sausage, and VERY tasty, paper-thin bread, olives, marinated aubergines and
peppers and a variety of other delights, all accompanied by generous servings
of local wine. To finish of this feast-like ‘snack’ one was treated to the
local ‘Mirta’ liquor, which is made with Juniper berries, alcohol and sugar or
honey.
Sheep milk is widely used and local cheeses are exported all
over the world. Their wool is not used for clothing, but for locally woven mats
and carpets. Five million sheep graze on Sardinia, by far outnumbering about
1-2 million human inhabitants.
Sardinia may not be on the top of many people’s bucket list,
but it harbours many hidden surprises, beautiful landscape, and – as mentioned
– a wealth of treasures for history buffs and fans of archeology. And – one
eats extremely well…
