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| Rick's Cafe |
For all the cinema buffs out there: the famous movie
Casablanca, with Ingrid Bergman and Humphrey Bogart was NOT shot in Casablanca,
neither of the two actors ever visited this city. However, Rick’s Café played a
starring role in the film – genuine or not – does still exist, and benefits
from the faded movie’s fame.
No graffiti in the city or its surroundings! That was an
unexpected surprise, even in the less than luxurious neighbourhoods of
Casablanca. The same applies to Marrakech. Both cities impressed with their
cleanliness all around – no garbage or plastic bags plugging up the landscape,
neither in rural nor urban areas.
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| Construction worker |
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| Berber ladies at market |
No strict Islamic dress code either! Morocco prides itself
of its tolerance and inclusiveness of different religions, faiths, and ethnic
groups. Even in the traditional Souks of Marrakesh one met women in strictest
cover up as well as females in barely there tops and shortish pants. For males
of course, anything goes, but the jellaba is still very popular – and shorts
are not customary for local people. Consequently Marrakesh and Casablanca give
an impression of safety to visitors dressed a la tourist couture. Apart from
the customary invitations by salesmen to visit every shop in sight, visitors
are not accosted, or even acknowledged.
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| Jellaba, the Arabic Jeans and t-shirt equivalent |
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| Lady passing amolite store |
The French influence dating back to Colonial times is still
evident. French is the lingua franca, and is spoken beside Berber and Arabic. Signs
are generally written in both French and Arabic. Morocco seems to be a winter
vacation haven for French citizens, who like to get away from dreary Paris
weather.
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| Mosque Hassan II |
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| Vast court yard of Hassan II Mosque |
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| Taking a stroll |
French influence is taken to its extreme in the design of
the third largest mosque in the Islam religion, the Hassan II mosque in
Casablanca. It has been designed by a French architect, funded by donations
mostly from Saudi Arabia, and took thousands of labourers and artisans from Morocco
to complete during six long years. It is huge! Built on a landfill (God resides
above the waters – as per Koran) its minaret of more than 215 meters height soars
into the unbroken blue sky. The mosque
can accommodate more than 25,000 faithful inside (under a retracting roof) and
an additional 80,000 or so in its expansive square. Facilities for pre-prayer
purification are available and working for both, male and female worshippers.
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| Moroccan family on a little outing |
Only Mecca and Medina mosques are larger than this one, but
this one stands out by its sea side location, its air of spaciousness and its
beautiful ocean side promenade, which is frequented for daily strolls by
hundreds of Muslims and others.
We drove from Casablanca, where we docked around 6 a.m. Surrounded by fog banks with blue sky peeking
out overhead we passed through vast green landscapes.
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| Berber Village in Atlas Foothills |
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| Hundreds of flocks of sheep dot the landscape |
Impressively modern highways, which appeared almost new and
up to any First World standards, connect the country between Atlantic and
Mediterranean shores as well with Saharan neighbouring countries. Fruit,
vegetables and - most of all - wheat grew almost horizon to horizon. One
imagines Morocco to be an endless desert with imposing Atlas Mountains breaking
the monotony, but coastal areas between Casablanca and Marrakesh are as fertile
as any Mediterranean country could be.
Ever so often the High Atlas came into view with its snow-capped
ridges and peaks of several thousand meters height.
Apart from farming, herding appears to be one of the most
common occupations of the Berbers, who still live in more or less traditional
style villages in the area of the Atlas Mountain foothills. Herds of sheep
dotted the landscape, accompanied by a lone shepherd, and making uncontested
forays into some of the planted fields of wheat and other crops. Dates of course
feature prominently in Morocco’s economy, and they come in hundreds of
varieties.
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| Marrakech Carriage Horses |
Transport is still often via donkey cart or by foot; horses
seem to be delegated to carriages in towns. Surprisingly to me, all of the
carriage horses were stallions, who were a placid as can be – and in general
very well fed and looked after.
Marrakesh is no longer the untouched typical Berber/Arabic
city of lore and legend. Yes, the scent of peppermint tea and orange blossoms
perfumes the air, the Souks are still there and the Plaza with snake charmers,
henna tatooists and water carriers still is in operation. But – the latter are
there for photo ops for tourists, and have not much use for the local
population.
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| Mosque in Marrakech |
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| Typical tourist souvenir store |
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| Berber Carpet demonstration in the Souk |
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| Water vendors....costume only |
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| Cobra awaiting snake charmer |
Mosques and Fortified Walls, as well as Palaces and Royal
tombs, maintain their antique flair and astonishingly beautiful architecture.
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| Palais Bahia inner courtyard decorations |
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| Arabic decorative writing carved in stone |
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| Painted ceiling in Palais Bahia |
Palais Bahia gave an inkling of the splendour of Moorish
design and artistic expertise. Decorations are strictly geometrical, as the
Koran forbids depictions of humans and animals. Koranic verses, intricately and
beautifully carved in stone, adorn the Moorish arches of inner court yards, and
hand painted wooden shutters cover windows inlaid with wrought iron lattice
work. Fountains provide cooling cascades of precious water, and even the old
concubine quarters have a pleasing atmosphere. By the way – Moroccan men of
Islamic faith are still allowed to take four wives…on the positive side – these
wives are allowed to drive cars, as opposed to their counterparts in Saudi
Arabia.
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| Courtyard filled with flat tombs of court servants and officials |
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| Window in Palais Bahia |
Marrakesh being such an attractive tourist destination,
especially for sun and warmth starved Europeans, has a plethora of resort like
hotels and restaurants – way up there in the Michelin Star levels, so even the
most discriminating visitor should be able to satisfy his or her most discerning
desires.
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| Washing the streets for the day's business |
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| Palms in Marrakech |
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| Window in an Arabic Palace |
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| A good place for a Peppermint Tea |
