One takes the bus to the centre of this wealthy barrio, walks a couple of blocks along apartment buildings, which could be mistaken for Parisian dwellings, and arrives at one of the many parks: Plaza de Nationes Unidas, dominated by a giant shiny sculpture, Floralis Generica.
The Floralis Generica stands 20 meters high, steel and aluminum, surrounded by a mirroring pond. This flower opens every day at Sunrise, and her giant petals close again at night.
Here is her stem, skillfully hiding the intricate mechanism, which makes this flower come alive morning and night.
A lotus of gigantic proportions....
Shopping arcade underneath the cemetery of Recoleta. The Institute of Design is located within as well. Outside the ample arches, fronting a number of parks (Plaza Thays, Plaza Francia, Urquiza, Uruguay and Chile) are hundreds of tables, served by different restaurants.
Opulent interior design, from stark and minimalist, to traditional and sumptuous...
Little hand applique'd top for a toddler to match with the silver spoon in his little mouth...
Above 'El Shopping' in the same block as and part of Recoleta Cemetery rises Basilica Nuestra Senora de Pilar, the second oldest church in Buenos Aires, consagrated in 1732.
Inside the Basilica we see outstanding Spanish colonial artwork, a baroque silver plated altar originally from Peru, and a small religious art museum, which is located inside the old convent of the original Padres Recoletas.
Strolling along Avenida de Libertador, monuments compete for attention. Here the monument of Plaza Francia.
Another monument, this one dedicated to Maria Eva Duarte de Peron, our dear notorious Evita. She looks a little thin and worn out, as she did at the end of her short life.
Another monument of a mounted hero, (General Urquiza?)placed on top of an artificial hill in Plaza Urquiza. The general probably enjoys from his high perch an unobstructed view of the silty Rio Plata
Being an enclave of Buenos Aires High Society or Nouveau Riche, Embassies from many countries make their impressive homes in this barrio.
Peru and Italy are just two examples.
And then one reaches the Museo National de Arte Decorativo.
In 1935 this magnificient residence was turned into a museum without changing any of its contents and appearance, when wealthy Don Matias Errazuriz, after the death of his also wealthy wife Dona Josefina de Alvear, sold it to the Argentinian Government with the condition that it would be kept as a museum.
It was designed by French architect Rene Sergent, finished and occupied by the rich couple and their two daughters on the18 Sept 1918. Its interior lay out is a fascinating mix of architectural style...baroque Louis 15th dining room, Regency style ball room, Art Deco Bedrooms, and a Tudor style grand hall. Auguste Rodin was supposed to design the palace, but the parties could not agree on a fee.
It immediately became the centre of intense social life. Don Matias and Dona Josefina had filled the grand mansion with more than 4000 works of art, which they collected during their stay in Europe where Don Matias acted a a diplomat for the Chilean government. Most notable are works such as Flemish tapestries, oil paintings by El Greco, Fragonard, Boudin, Manet, French sculptures and outstanding pieces of antique furniture.
Impressive entrance to the mansion, with a coach house on the left of the large portal. The charming coach house has been converted into an eclectic gourmet restaurant called Croque Madame. French of course...
In the surrounding courtyard, shaded by large trees, are Sunbrellas, white covered bistro tables and cushioned chairs, where the local 'hautes' hang out. A Quilmes cerveza is served in a icebucket, a breadbasket arrives with fresh warm tostadas and a dollop of Pate. I ordered Gnocci Parisienne - why not.
Superb service, and very discreet. Amongst the haute cuisine designer clothed women and the suited and 300 dollar tied men, dined a few more casual guests with their children, enjoying a little almuerzo (lunch).
Perfect place for what the French call a 'cinq-a-sept', clandestine little love affairs to be savoured after a little 'repas', a two hour time slot, after work has finished (maybe) and before the family expects the errant lover back home for dinner.
There were definitey a few rather 'enamoured' lovers of a certain age, obviously married but not to each other. Well groomed gentlemen, maybe governmental officials on 'special assignment', and women equally expensively turned out, turtle doved themselves through their 'petit dejeuner' and a bottle of wine, preparing themselves for more delicious things to come beyond the wrought iron fence of the Croque Madame....
There were definitey a few rather 'enamoured' lovers of a certain age, obviously married but not to each other. Well groomed gentlemen, maybe governmental officials on 'special assignment', and women equally expensively turned out, turtle doved themselves through their 'petit dejeuner' and a bottle of wine, preparing themselves for more delicious things to come beyond the wrought iron fence of the Croque Madame....
Oh, cherie, this is not what it looked like in the Kama Sutra!!!
Well, despite the somewhat enhanced level of restaurant, the final bill for a main course, a Quilmes and the appetizer was less than 16 Can Dollars - including gratuity. I like that kind of high life!
Inside the mansion-museum - entrance 1.25 dollars - a dining room of different dimensions....
The Grand Tudor hall....only showing a small part of it...
Here is the view from the first balustrade, which acts like a passage to enter a number of female bedrooms facing the garden, and another lot of male bedrooms facing the Court of Honour, the entry drive and court - where Croque Madame is now located. All with private baths, as big as a Vancouver Condo, and a few 'private connecting doors' between bedrooms to hide nocturnal visits from prying eyes.
Well, if one needs a certain je-ne-sais-quoit to enjoy this city, I suppose one can find it here in Recoleta.
As Jorge Luis Borges, the famous Argentinian writer, said
Siempre he sentido, que hay algo en Buenos Aires, que me gusta. Me gusta tanta, que no me guste a otras personas. Es amor asi, celoso.
I always felt, that there is something in Buenos Aires I enjoy. I enjoy it so much, that I do not enjoy that other peolpe enjoy it. It is Love, then, jealously.
