Saturday, November 9, 2013

San Antonio de Areco...welcome back to the Dia de Tradicion

Retiro, Micro Bus Terminal. Micro meaning Long Distance bus, not 'very small' bus. Run like an airport, with just as much traffic it sees hundreds of buses departing every day to all points north, west and south in South America. San Antonio de Areco is only a two hour bus ride away from the Capital of Buenos Aires.
Huge collection of ticket counters accommodating the dozens of bus companies, concessions at every corner, news stands, computerised screens showing arrivals and departures from one of the seventy gates. No Smoking allowed, which of course means every Argentino lights up as soon as they find their hands free and have dug their pack of cigarettes out of their pockets.
  
Truly the wrong side of the tracks. Across from bus terminal and three adjoining railway stations, and in shouting distance of the most exclusive neighbourhood of Buenos Aires - this shameful slum, dirty, poverty stricken, crowded, crime laden and drug ridden...Villa 32, the neighbourhood's name

Chevallier bus, with 'cama executive', meaning a seat, that reclines almost to totally horizontal. Very comfortable,  and for me, at the front of the bus, right behind the 'mata fuego', fire extinguisher.
Every time, the bus hit one of the many rain caused ponds on the highway, a veritable fountain would erupt from underneath the fire extinguisher and spray rainwater waist high. One wonders, whether this extinguisher would have any life left being drenched like that, and one has faint suspicions about the general maintenance of these otherwise good looking buses.

Paradores Draghi, an traditional inn (with silversmith shop and museum on the premises) is my accommodation. Simple, clean, quaint.

The Inn's reception room with carpet made of cow hide squares, grand mother's furniture and faded family photos

Down the street, one gets ready for the first parillas, Argentine BBQ. A large fire is prepared, around it pork, lamb, and beef is mounted on racks and left to becoming more or less 'well done'. It takes three hours at least for a side of mead to cook, as it is not put above the coals to grill, but mounted a small distance away, and so slow cooks through and through. No Argentine beef is put on feed lots, they all enjoy free range living until their meet their predictable end - on one of these Parillas.

In Antonio de Areco it rained, not too many people took advantage of the bicycles available for free use.

Some gauchos are traversing town, in preparation for the Grand Fiesta and Dia de Tradicion, which happens on the first weekend of November each year. Reason to come here and partake in the all out festivities. Of course, weather is a consideration, and one is a little doubtful, whether jineteadas, domas and tropillas entabladas (Rodeo, bareback and free herds) are going to happen. Although the stage for a performance of Chaqueno Palavecino is being erected in an expansive park, inclement weather would put this event in doubt as well.
So far, all events are on, albeit the forecast is dire.

The artistic version of a criollo horse, the type of horse, that will be the main actor (apart from the gauchos) during the festival

The real thing, happily grazing in lush grass

Spring in Areco and the trees are in bloom

Not everything has been shined up for the Fiesta....

Well, here is hoping for good weathers, so this is not the only example of horse training I will see on this visit to San Antonio de Areco.