Saturday, January 8, 2011

7 Jan 2011 - The other side of the Malecon (Sea Promenade)

The Port Development is called Puerto Costa Maya, but the hinterland village lining the reef protected beach a little further south is called Mahahual. The region is Quintana Roo, bordering on Belize and Guatalmala on its southern border. It is flat, the land ranging from arid rock expanse, to wetland to jungle. The wetlands were to fragile, too brittle even to support heavy Mayan pyramids. There are plenty around, though, in other regions of Quintana Roo, such as Oxtankah, 350 A.D.; Dzibanche, 618 A.D.; Kohunlich, 600 A.D.; Calakmul; Sian Ka'an, Ichpaatun..and at least 350 more, mostly unexcavated, with equally unpronouncable names.
Talking about unpronouncable: Yucatan, where all these sites are located, is in itself the result of mispronounciation by Spanish newcomers of the old mayan word UHUUTHAAN, which means 'Listen to the strange way they are speaking', and was the Mayan's answer to the Spanish question: 'What is the name of this place?'.
There are still two distinct camps to present day Mahaual. The Back Street and the beautifully developed, and still under construction, Malecon - more of the latter later.
The back street, surrounded by wetlands underneath a forest of dead tree trunks (result of another destructive hurricane), and bordered by a large soccer field, shows traces of the original humble fishing village. The 'super mini', a tiny grocery store, the 'mercado' for fresh produce, the village police station, the carneceria (butcher), the cheap cerveza bar, the lavanderia (laundry), and a few very simple dwellings. Some still have wells (aquifers everywhere) for drawing drinking water, open air sleeping quarters and cooking areas.
I explored the underbelly of Mahahual until I almost arrived at an old white light house, guarding a reefy outcrop at the end of the road. There, the Mexican locals and a number of non native expats (mostl appeared like a new Hippy Generation) enjoyed a lively blues fiesta. Blues?? Yes, entire Mexican clans had camped around the music stand, under a Corona Cerveza tent, and on the adjoining beach, and happily mixed together with the motley crew of non Mexicans. Tacos, Beer, Coca Cola, Music, Dogs... something altogether different from the stereotyopical Mariachi music (which originates in Jalisco anyway...) and folkloric re-enactments.
Now to the other side/camp of Mahahual....the practically newly constructed Malecon, the beautiful shore promenade, where the guests are frolicking and sauntering along.