 |
| Lowering the Mast, to fit under Bordeaux' Bridges |
 |
| First Squeeze |
 |
| Second Squeeze |
 |
| ...and docking downtown Bordeaux |
 |
| That's where we were, where we are, and where we are going.... |
Bordeaux in La Belle France indeed! After a typical bouncy
ride through the Bay of Biscay, Prinsendam entered the Gironde Estuary to track
back south from her original northerly course to make her way up river for
about 100 km to Bordeaux. Three rivers, the Dordogne, the Garonne and the
Gironde join together and border and transit one of the most renowned wine
regions of the world.
The rivers are subject to tidal fluctuations ranging up to
three to four meters, which makes navigation somewhat interesting for vessels
of Prinsendam`s size and draft. However, not to worry! The ships sailors had
removed the tower on the top deck of Prinsendam, and laid it flat amongst the
halyards where the usual ensigns were fluttering in the breeze. That lowered
her height sufficiently to squeak underneath the two bridges which span the
Garonne just below-river from Bordeaux.
 |
| No more navigation further up river.... |
 |
| Parklike Promenade along the 'dock' |
 |
| Public Fountain |
 |
| It needs only an inch of water, and we have a 'beach' |
 |
| Riding naked.... |
 |
| Chat Room |
 |
| Prinsendam's Stern |
 |
| First steps.... |
The ship`s dock in Bordeaux must be the most attractive of
all ship`s docks, as it puts the ship right beside downtown Bordeaux, bow
almost touching the Seventeen Arches historic bridge (too low for anything but
a canoe), which restricts major ship traffic from proceeding any further
upriver.
There is not even a `terminal` to receive passengers, one steps
immediately from the gangway to the popular riverside promenade. Going left,
one enters old Bordeaux, turning right one heads towards riverside shops and
restaurants housed in buildings which previously served as warehouses, heading
straight forward one enters the largest public square in Europe, which lies
amongst a well-organized mature forest of acorn trees.
Just ahead of the ship is a `public fountain`, which looks
more like a watery mirror. A thin sheet of ever moving water covers a flat
area, as large as a football field, and on a warm and sunny day like today
serves as a lively playground, wading pool, tricycle path, pedestrian walkway,
pavement beach and picnic ground. There should be one of those in every city;
it appeared to be an amusing diversion for young and old.
 |
| Roses and Vinyards |
 |
| Saint Emilion |
One is, of course, in the land of vineyards and superb
wines. Some are not only excellent but equally notorious which sometimes
results in impossible prices per bottle (from the top wineries produced in
outstanding years). $ 3000 per bottle from the top class vintners for a 2011 or
2012 vintage is not unheard of.
Soil composition, climate, hours of sunshine, centuries of
practice, grape variety, exposure to tidal influences and frequency and timing
of rains (no artificial irrigation allowed) all contribute to the unusual height
quality of Bordeaux wines. Wherever a vine could possibly grow and produce good
grapes, one will find rows and rows of vines. Many vineyards, Chateaus, go back
centuries and belong to the same aristocratic (nouveau or ancient) families
forever. In modern times, Asians buy up acres and acres of existing vineyards.
I headed – for convenience joining a ship`s tour - for Saint
Emilion near the river Dordogne. The gently rolling country side seems to be
tiled with field after field of vines, interspersed with a few small towns,
villages and the ever present chateaus.
 |
| Anyone who can afford $3000 for a bottle of Bordeaux, can afford to pay these prices for a room in a romantic hotel in Saint Emilion |
 |
| The Romans and Eleanor of Aquitaine initiated the wine industry here.... |
 |
| Saint Emilion City Wall |
St Emilion is a Unesco World Heritage site. It hugs the side
of limestone cliffs, and is surrounded by verdant forests (land useless for
grape growing) and vineyards by the hundreds. Wine is king, but gourmet food
ranks a close second. Locals and visitors alike `go out` to lunch, dine
dejeuner and just chat over a glass of their beloved wine – of course smoking
cigarettes almost nonstop.
To sample the great variety of delicious libation of the
Bordeaux region one needs a lot of time, albeit the distances between different
‘appellations’ of wine are relatively short. There is Medoc, Charente Maritime,
Dordogne, Lot et Garonne, each with their unique grape varieties and taste
nuances. Despite the exclusive
varieties, only affordable by the super-rich, there is a humongous volume of
good to excellent wine for the nondescript normal citizen of visitor – like me.
 |
| Place de Parlement Saint Catherine |
 |
| Every available corner is used as an out door cafe |
 |
| Night over Bordeaux |
For me, a superb menu in a small side walk restaurant named ‘Parlement
y Graves’ on aptly named Rue de Parlement Saint Catherine was just the perfect adieu
to Bordeaux. Warm goat cheese on Boston lettuce with walnuts enhanced with a
REAL French dressing, a piece of cod fish with a fine dressing, a variety of
French tasty cheeses (non pasteurised and fragrant) with a couple of chunks of
crusty French bread and a glass of the famous Bordeaux – what a Fete pour les Dieux!!
One regrets leaving!
 |
| Bucking the tide on our way down-river |
 |
| Fishing huts on the Gironde |
 |
| Patriotic Fishing Hut |
 |
| Open Sea again and the pilot is picked up from Prinsendam's upper deck |
 |
| ...by a French Airforce helicopter |
