Spiritual traditions of Bantu tribes of Banjul, Angola and Congo mixed with Spanish, Portuguese, Garani, Charruas and Chanas to form a new tradition in the New World. Black Slaves were robbed at sword point of their religion, language and culture, their spiritual practices prohibited, so they reverted to subterfuge and new ways to satisfy their spiritual needs.
Their God Kalungangombe magically turned into Balthazar (the black Magi) and their African tradition took on a new face.
The first negro slaves arrived in Colonia de Sacramento, Uruguay, (now definitely on the must-see tourist map for different reasons) in 1680. They spread to Montevideo, the major port for the entire Rio de la Plata area, then to Argentina a few decades later.
Engraving of Candombe rituals in 1870
Uruguayan Candombe Players in the early 20th Century
Fernando Gomez Germano
Painting of a Candombe Procession
Not quite what the old African Spiritualists had in mind....
Originally, and in a somewhat modified way today, a Cumparsa of Candombe (team) was made up of the Granillero - the witch doctor, La Mama Vieja - the old Healer, El Escobero - flag carrier of the tribe, La Vedette - the dancing women.
The sound and rythm are provided by a collection of drums: the Chico, Piano, and Repique - different sizes and tonality.
A different beat for each drum combines into a complex throbbing sound, irrestitible to even the most jaded and inhibited - people move to the beat.
Anybody interested in the fascinating historical background of ceremony and music may visit the link at the bottom of the page. Despite being written in Spanish, I found that I kept digging deeper and deeper into this almost unknown part (to us) of Latin American history.
There are few black people amongst the multi-mix of races and origins in Argentina. But, for Candombe in San Telmo, many arrive with Candombe groups from all States of Argentina and from Uruguay to participate in the Drum and Dance Past. Over 20 groups turned up for this event, and they departed from 3 p.m. until 10 p.m., sufficiently spaced apart not to deafen each other or the spectators with their cumulative drumming
Outfits for drummers, dancers and flag bearers could be funky modern or colourfully traditional.
La Mama Vieja putting the last touches on one of the Drummers.
Little Drummer Boy riding his Chico drum
Pre-Costume Change
Daddy and his little drummer boy....
El Escobero in his regalia...
Four different open fires right in the middle of the cobble stoned streets, enough to warm up all the drums before being called to Candombe...
Today, Candombe is partly a fiesta with a social conscience: the disinherited, poor, downtrodden of long ago started the tradition, now present day unfortunates make the movement their own.
Staging for the start of the performance...
Young Vedette - Bailarina
Brasilian influence is evident in the stage of 'undress' of many bailarinas.
Drummer awaiting his turn.
Putting on the traditional leg lacings.
Breathing fire to tune the drums to prime performance....
A Lubola, meaning a white man painted black. A variation...
This custom goes back to a time when there were insufficient black people to raise a Candombe, so white people painted their faces black and thus made up for the missing numbers. The tradition started in a place, now called Lubola.
Certainly a colourful 'front' for a Candombe group. Banners like this take the place of old tribal insignia.
Lining up for departure.
'The start of Equality...We know the humble beginnings of the true fathers of our land: Blacks, Indian and Gauchos.
Gauchos originally were the outcasts from armies during the many civil wars. These poor peons were taken against their will from their ranchitos, dragged into the army away from their families and scant belongings. As soldiers of the King or the Government, they were barely clothed, hardly ever fed, and almost never paid. If they did not die whilst in service, they were cast out into the street/open pampa to fend for themselves. And so they did, living of cattle running wild, and working to get a horse...sleep under the stars, be totally self sufficient and own nothing that could not be packed onto a saddle.
Young vedette...
Vedette, leading off her orchestra of drums - heated up and ready to roll.
Definitely and naturally all inclusive...even the youngest are part of the band.
They drum so hard, and for such a long time...they tape their finger tips so they can last the distance.
Alfonso Estevez Bello Painting
Some people back in Beautiful British Columbia asked me, what I would do all day here alone in Buenos Aires.
Answer: whatever the City offers...
Now, still early on a Saturday evening, off to the next stop, a few blocks away on the Avenida 5 Mayo, where the Milonga de la Nation has taken over the entire six-lane Boulevard for several blocks - to celebrate Tango. That will be the next blog - shorter than the last two - I promise.
For the historically curious - here is a Candombe site...
