After yesterday's destruction of the City's largest Christmas tree, which was reduced to ashes in a spectacular conflagration by 'persons unknown' during a demonstration, the City will replace the tree - before Christmas. The Nativity Scene who suffered the same fate as the tree, will be replaced by the Holy Church, compliments of the Bishop.
Apart from the usual strikes, blockages of traffic, and closing of bridges (local Unions want to be heard and seen) things are returning to normal.
The Nativity Scene at the Plaza de Congreso escaped destruction....
A small taste of life at the Esquina Gardel, a historic district in Abasto - a few subway stations away from El Centro.
Wall Art....
Cerveza Art. A cool beer is served with a frosted glass, a tray of nuts, chips and snacks, and napkins - and a bottle of beer of course.
Temperatures are revving up for a heat wave, 36 degrees and Thunderstorms in the offing, and I really needed a Quilmes, after another tango lesson.
The signal to the end of a lesson always consists of a demonstration dance by the teachers, inspiration for the rest of us to keep on dancing...and learning.
The same day (Riot Day - but pre-riot) I wandered across to a really historic corner of Buenos Aires, actually only two blocks away from Casa Rosada, the very center of the City.
This block dates back 1608, when the Jesuits first built a cloister here after they had first founded bastions for the Holy Church in Peru around 1568. They first settled in Argentina on the shallow banks of the Rio Plata, however Pirates and Corsairs forever disturbed their spiritual and physical endeavours - so they moved inland to the centre of the then non existing city.
In 1686 commenced the construction of today's Church of San Ignacio. The architect, Kraus, may have seen it finished by 1722.
Today it is called the 'Manzana de las Luces' - meaning the 'City Block of Illumination', the name stuck after The Argos, a local newpaper, posted an article in 1821 praising the centre of learning the old cloister had become and calling it Manzana de las Luces.
Several colleges and universities are housed in the old buildings, as well as exhibition rooms, library, and seats of learning for Fine Art, Language and Theatre.
But - disaster struck here as well. In 1966, on the 28th of June, the Government in Power cracked down forcibly on Science, Universities, Professors, Researchers - and on anybody who showed any traces of intellectualism.
'La Noche de Bastones Largos' - The 'Night of the Long Sticks' made shameful history.
Juan Carlo Ongania, who was Argentinia's de facto President between 1966 and 1970, is credited with ordering the brutal rounding up of faculty members.
They were rounded up, and herded out of one of the ancient doors to walk between a line up of soldiers, armed with long sticks and psychologically prepared to act as brutally as could be. The march was kept to a slow crawl, to give the soldiers time to beat each scientist, professor, researcher and student - male or female - individually and thoroughly.
The Dean, Rolando Garcia, when faced with this line up of thugs, said to one of them: How dare you to commit such an attack - I am still Dean of this house of Learning.
The only answer to his question was a specially severe beating on his head.
After they passed through the 'gauntlet', they were lined up against one of the old stone walls, and then transferred to Prison - 400 detainees, 215 were scientists.
Later, 166 of them were exiled and joined universities in Latin America, mostly Chile and Venezuela; 94 went to USA, Canada and Puerto Rico; 41 to Europe.
Today, the universities, theatres, libraries, colleges are open again in the Manzana de Las Luces.
Sin education los bastones cada vez son mas largos y hieren mas fuerte...
Without education the sticks are longer each time and injure more....
Quote from one of the victims.
A terrible loss to Argentina. Some of the scientist became Nobel Prize Winners, many others have risen to elevated ranks in Academia, many have discovered new scientific concepts of their time and invented technologies, which have been adopted world wide.
Horacio Scarnato's painting of Manzana de las Luces
Strong columns in the Inner Court
Open Air performances take place in a historic setting
Underneath the storied buildings of the old Jesuit Settlement is another oddity of Buenos Aires - extensive tunnels, 6 meters in diameter. Safe conduct between government buildings and churches, safe havens during Pirate attacks? I have yet to learn about those secrets.
The interior of the Iglesia de San Ignacio, part of Manzana de las Luces
The Church hosts concerts on each 4th Sunday of the month (gratis), as well as Music Festivals throughout the year.
Iglesia de San Ignacio looks like something out of Alpine Bavarian Baroque. Not a surprise, that is where and when Kraus, the architect of the church, learned his profession.
Buenos Aires never ceases to surprise me - from tranquil and pleasant daily life, to sudden violent outbreaks, historic gems hidden in the busy streets of the City, and an unquenchable lust for life in it's people, who have suffered through so much over the ages, but can never be kept down for too long. It is a crazy place, and maybe this 'locura' is part of its fascination. Argentinians are passionately patriotic...no matter what.
I have to check out that new Christmas Tree in Plaza de Mayo - Merry Christmas.
