Another Historical Birthplace of Tango - La Boca, specifically the little area called Caminito (Little Walk). It is said, that Tango was born here - a hotbed for brothels in the early years of Buenos Aires when men definitely outnumbered women. Men danced with men in those establishments, whilst awaiting their turn with the ladies of pleasure.
Today, it is a hotbed for tourists. Instead of brothels one has a plethora of souvenir shops, restaurants, bars and open air tango for photo ops. As well, quite an exhibition of paintings, arts and crafts, leather, and the never absent t-shirt vendors.
And of course - fridge magnets by the thousands.
The paintings are mostly originals, some of them actually very well executed and somewhat above trash art for tourists.
Graffiti Art is -as everywhere in Buenos Aires - part of the urban landscape.
There are actually a few public facilities - however, don't expect seats (the women here make a point of peeing on them if they are installed) nor toilet paper, at least in the more 'basic' versions of the banos. The little rubber pipe in this photo is there to 'keep the air smelling nicely'.
La Boca is a rather iffy neighbourhood, one does not venture outside the tourist area. Poverty, decrepit housing, petty crime - or worse - desperate people....a barrio, which definitely needs a helping hand.
What is left of prior glory in terms of architecture is falling into disrepair.
La Riachuela, the backwater of the Rio Plata, which gave rise to ocean and river commerce in the first place, is a cesspool to surpass all cesspools. Black water, oily consistency, with every contaminant imaginable floating just beyond the tourist area of Caminito. Don't dare to cross the bridge...a most certain invitation for assault.
Peace prevails a couple of blocks away. These youngsters are taking a break from Folkloric Dancing in the toursit area. Note his ample pleated gaucho pants and soft leather boots.
The Centro Cultural is a medley of Kitsch and historic expositions.
But, around the corner....police presence on the old railway tracks crossing the barrio.
Music - folklore, tango, guitar, bandeon...at every corner
And even the most modest little corner store has at least one table for guests to enjoy their cafecito...
overshadowed by former glory and elegance...
slowly descending into decadence and disrepair.
A wall painting honouring La Boca's disappeared residents during Argentina's 'Dirty War'
The locals watching the tourists on the other side of the street, where they descend from their tour buses.
The old railway tracks are separated from the streets by tall fences.
Every piece of wall space - even in the parks - is covered with graffiti, some actually very artistic.
Nearby is the La Boca Football (Soccer) stadium. I hope to attend one of these religious happenings....but, time runs out. The heroes of the game are celebrated in graffiti.
Pride of Place: Republic of La Boca
No Tango - but tourist photos with a tango dancer - male or female, depending on the sex of the tourist.
The Thinker and his Cigarette
Open Door to a little store...
Manning the parking lot...
La Perla, another one of the multiple birth Tango Cradles
Filete for everyone - plasticised.
Tango as part of the menu of every restaurant in Caminito
But - even tango dancers need a break...
If you don't dance - be available for tourist photos...tatoos and all.
Yavier Maldonado and Paula Parra - they were dancing here this afternoon. They are very conservative tango teachers in their other life. Actually he is one of the most strict traditionalist teachers around - according to local knowldge
Guess who is the tourist? Fun being had by all!
Portenos waching the scene...
Tango wall art - as per Sigfredo Pastor, the famous tango artist
And another tango cafe in Caminito, a place which is a must-see at least once during a visit to Buenos Aires.
