Tuesday, March 29, 2011

26 March 2011 - Noche en Vela

Note: alignment of pages is off - but cannot fix it..my apologies ahead of time. During Noche en Vela, inspired by White Night in Paris, Buenos Aires joins Paris, Madrid, Toronto, St. Petersburg, Berlin, Riga, Rome and many others in a Night of Culture and 'Lights Out'. A global extinguishing of public illumination for a duration of sixty minutes symbolizes an effort to conserve energy. Sufficient cause for a city - wide all night party. The City of Buenos Aires published a booklet, summarizing the events that occur at more than 150 different locations n Downtown, Villa Lugano, Barrancas, Palermo, Recoleta and La Boca. Even the Zoo is putting on a night visit to watch nocturnal animals. The Botanical Garden converted into an open theatre. A map of El Centro, with location for artistic performances cross-referenced to an extensive program. And that is in addition to all the bars and restaurants remaining open for business until 6 a.m. I spent the time to drink another cafecito reading up on all the events in the most famous of all Buenos Aires Cafes - The Tortoni. Book signings, shows, Japanes drummers, Argentinian Pop artists, tango, multi media shows, Divine Comedy in Palacio Bardolo, church services, light shows, art galleries, planetarium, craft markets...and more and more and more. Another cafecito at the El Gato Negro, another historic literary hang out, on Ave Corrientes, and I decided that one of the folkloric shows happened literally on my front door. El Gato Negro ios not only a cafe, but a herb, spice and tea shop of grand proportions. Shelves are lined with glass jars, each containing exocitc ingredients to season the most unusual dishes. Avenida Corrientes was - of course - closed to traffic. One could wander for blocks in the middle of the usually jammed artery. El Obelisco providing a good compass to find one's way back to the next Subte station. Chicago in Buenos Aires Every City needs an Edelweiss, German Schnitzels made from Argentinian Beef. The less clothing the actors wear (at least the female ones) the more popular the Revue. Elena Roger (star of the musical Evita as performed in London 2006, as well as starring role as Edith Piaf) Same stage on which Placido Domingo performed, almost the same crowds packing the area in front of the stage. El Obelisco - still lit up. But candles were already distributed to passers by. One needs these around with such a large crowd .... Tango shows all night, inside and out. The open air milonga would start at 4 a.m. - just when Portenos wake up to the previous day Everybody applauds the latest performance, except the dog who was more interested in the audience than the star. The dog scampered about on the most lovingly constructed doggie wheelchair, and appeared to enjoy life as much on two legs as he must have done previously on four. The off-side of the Obelisco (away from the concerts) was a scene of permanent grid-lock. Los Cardones, Folkloric dinner/show restaurant across the street from my apartment. Since late afternoon they had moved chairs and tables onto the closed street and set up a dinner/beer/whatever theatre outside. No chance of going to sleep before 6 a.m. anyway...a large stage effectively blocked the entire width of the street. The entrance hall to my apartment building is lit up - as usual. The caretaker kept guard and at the same time enjoyed the performances from his command post. Recetionistas to the restaurant Traditional Pampas music.. contemporary folk music...



and dancing (including restaurant revellers and passers-by) until the wee hours of the morning. I heard the last few hours of music from my bed...easier on the ears that way.