24 March 2011 - Argentina commemorates a dark chapter of it's history: the 35th Anniversary of the Military Coup, that started years of terror for Argentinians. 30.000 people 'disappeared' into detention, torture-chambers and death. This night, tens of thousands of Portenos took to the streets and avenues leading to Plaza Mayo, the political heart of Buenos Aires and Argentina. In front of the illuminated pink facade of Casa Rosada, the seat of government, a dense crowd waved banners, flags, posters and chanted commemorative slogans or just wandered about, kids on shoulders, to participate in the Manifestation of Solidarity. The 'Madres de Plaza Mayo', a group of women whose children, husbands or relatives were amongst the Disappeared, usually demonstrate on the Plaza every Thursday - seeking justice for the survivors and judgement for the perpetrators - some of whom still at liberty sip their cafecitos and remain beyond punishment for their crimes. Now the Madres of Plaza Mayo are known at the 'Abuelas de Plaza Mayo' (Grandmothers of May Plaza)- time marches on... The National Holiday commemorating the sad events of the past effectively closed all avenues leading to Plaza Mayo. They were, instead, packed with pedestrians - peaceful, if outspoken and chanting, despite the theme of the demonstration. Avenida Mayo was one of those closed Avenues. It leads along a number of city blocks adorned with the most impressive Belle Epoque buildings to Avenida 9 de Julio, Buenos Aires version of the Champs Elysee - except a few times wider, making it the widest Avenue in the World. There a different crowd was gathering, one that had awaited the on-again-off-again free open air recital of the famed Spanish Tenor: Placido Domingo. More street closures - this time radiating outwards from the iconic Obelisco, where almost everything of importance takes place. Avenida 9 de Julio had turned into a theatre the size of five city blocks across it's entire impressive width. A 16 meter high stage rose to one side of the Obelisco, 22.000 plastic chairs were lined up in neat rows inside a 'special enclosure', behind it thousands of people started to look for their spot either bringing their own banquitas, some of which were brought all the way from far away houses in the Campo. One could buy a 'banquito' 20 pesos from the ever present street vendors. Hearing the concert a few blocks from the stage was made possible by a sound system that extended along the Avenue and gigantic overhead screens allowed a close up image of the singers. Many people had travelled from the interior of Argentina to experience this once in a life time event, which almost did not take place. Musicians on strike, ergo one planned performance in the elegant historic Teatro Colon was cancelled, albeit the second open air performance made it past those difficulties. But, the weather did not co-operate for the original concert date (23 March as not to interfer with the Dia de Memoria), it rained buckets. By 8 p.m. about 120.000 people had gathered enjoying a perfect Buenos Aires evening. Four Orchestras (Teatro Colon, Filarmonica de B.A., Sinfonia National and Sinfonia de La Plata) and the Coro de Teatro Colon had joined forces, conducted by Eugene Kohn (USA). And of course the fabled Maestro himself, Placido Domingo. Virginia Tolo, an Argentinian Soprano of renown, wold accompany him during the duets.
The Headline Next Day.... Passion would be the operative (pun intended) word to describe the reaction of the multitude, when the the first notes of El Cid (Massenet) floated through the night, Domingo ready in a black suit, and the applause and shouts of 120.000 people verberating along the Avenue. As impressive as it is to hear that kind of crowd cheer, the more impressive it is when that kind of crowd falls utterly silent. (traffic was only faintly noticeable on Cordoba Street - 5 blocks away) Charpentier, Wagner, Verdi, Giordano arias and duets rang out - Placido, despite his 70 years, still has command over an incomparable voice. Virginia Tolo, the young soprano, complemented his to perfection. Intermission - and for a lighter part of the program. It started with a slight delay, when Bomberos (Firefighters) and Ambulances screamed through a narrow lane along 9 de Julio, sirens at full blast and horns blaring. Conductor stopped in mid stroke, Domingo and Tolo shrugged their shoulders, and when quiet returned brought the crowd to it's feet again with operetta arias and a Fair Lady rendition. However, the attendees really went viral, when at 11 p.m. two hours into the concert, Domingo sang tango accompanied by four bandeoneros. Titles like
Volver, A media Luz moved the crowd to emotional response. When finally he sang
Mi Buenos Aires Querido, the street must have been trembling with the applause. Of course, no concert by Domingo would be complete without is trademark rendition of
Granada. The last tango
El dia que me quieras was the official Good Bye, and 120.000 throats shouted deafening bravos and double the number of hands clapped frenetic applause for minutes.
The Clarin's Review the next day
Crowds around the Obelisco.
The Headline Next Day.... Passion would be the operative (pun intended) word to describe the reaction of the multitude, when the the first notes of El Cid (Massenet) floated through the night, Domingo ready in a black suit, and the applause and shouts of 120.000 people verberating along the Avenue. As impressive as it is to hear that kind of crowd cheer, the more impressive it is when that kind of crowd falls utterly silent. (traffic was only faintly noticeable on Cordoba Street - 5 blocks away) Charpentier, Wagner, Verdi, Giordano arias and duets rang out - Placido, despite his 70 years, still has command over an incomparable voice. Virginia Tolo, the young soprano, complemented his to perfection. Intermission - and for a lighter part of the program. It started with a slight delay, when Bomberos (Firefighters) and Ambulances screamed through a narrow lane along 9 de Julio, sirens at full blast and horns blaring. Conductor stopped in mid stroke, Domingo and Tolo shrugged their shoulders, and when quiet returned brought the crowd to it's feet again with operetta arias and a Fair Lady rendition. However, the attendees really went viral, when at 11 p.m. two hours into the concert, Domingo sang tango accompanied by four bandeoneros. Titles like Volver, A media Luz moved the crowd to emotional response. When finally he sang Mi Buenos Aires Querido, the street must have been trembling with the applause. Of course, no concert by Domingo would be complete without is trademark rendition of Granada. The last tango El dia que me quieras was the official Good Bye, and 120.000 throats shouted deafening bravos and double the number of hands clapped frenetic applause for minutes. 
The Clarin's Review the next day 
Crowds around the Obelisco.
