Oban, Scotland, 21 July 2015
A tender port, tiny Oban welcomes us at the Firth of Lorne.
Oban has been the home of lords, saints, sinners and travellers since what is
called the beginning of time. Now it calls itself the seafood capital of
Scotland, boasts a well-known whisky distillery, and has been the backdrop of
many films.
I headed for the nearest bus station and boarded one headed for Inveraray Castle, home
to the Duke and Duchess of Argyll, and at this day only, the site of Scottish
Highland Games with championships for Caber Tossing, Shotput, Highland Dancing,
Piping and who knows what else. Being a Country Fair, good food and
entertainment awaits.
The buses run like Swiss watches, on time, clean, reliable…one
drives along tranquil Lochs, verdant hillsides, ruined castles (there are tons
of them) and meadows replete with the obligatory sheep and cattle until one
reaches Inveraray.
Having almost four hours to enjoy the little town, castle
and fair – I headed for the fair (located adjoining Inveraray Castle) first. Five Pounds bought admittance. First
impression – everyone from town was there – in Wellington boots. The grassy
fairgrounds were pretty well soaked from previous rains. I came to the
conclusion that to fit in, one had to arrive with a purebred British dog, bring
a portable chair, wear Wellington Boots, and – if male – sport a kilt.
The grounds were one large medley of bagpipe sound. Bagpipe
competitors strutted their steps and their music in about a dozen tents placed
a couple of hundred feet apart, with judges noting down pros and cons of the
performance in each tent. In addition, pipers ‘warming up’ stalked around in
various areas in the fairgrounds and added to the acustics. Despite the physical
separation of pipers, a never ending wailing permeated the fairgrounds; somehow
it all sounded the same – one or a hundred – just a continuous howling of
injured cats.
Young girls in kilts competed on a covered stage for ‘best
in various versions of Highland Dancing’, while others awaited their turn on
the grass, wearing rubber booties over their dancing shoes.
The ‘BIG BOYS’ competed in the middle of the grassy fair
grounds. Ccaber tossing, shot putting, and various other strong-man
competitions had the men in kilts vying for the Championships. Ironically the
biggest in the line-up of giants came from Belgium (it was after all a world
championship). Watching the twirling motion of the shot putters demonstrated,
that Scotsmen (or anyone else in kilts) actually do wear something under their
kilts….
One could taste venison burger, regular ‘sandwiches’, haggies,
blackpudding and smokies (various fish
smoked right on the fairgrounds). I opted for a smoked trout – just off the
smok-stack, and enjoyed just about the tastiest piece of fish ever – succulent,
fresh, tender, delicious!!
A walk to the Castle got me to the entrance just in time to
witness a presentation of an honorary banner
to a military unit – all done in person by the Duke and Duchess of
Argyll, who appear to be rather easy going members of the Scottish Upper Class
of Landed Gentry.
The gardens of Inveraray Castle, home to the Duke and Duchess,
are a beautiful example of English Garden/Park design: lots of green grass,
stands of trees and bushes, some wild flowers allowed to grow in small areas…a
natural flow of natural beauty.
