Sunday, July 26, 2015

23 July 2015, Belfast, Northern Ireland


Port follows upon Port with hardly any rest in between, and hardly any leisure to enjoy a tranquil sunset view from the window of my cabin . Today, we anchor at Belfast and visit the largest city of Northern Ireland, population about 267,000.

It is in existence since the Bronze Age, but only developed into a significant settlement during the 17th century. Oliver Cromwell and later Dutch King William III of Orange started a fledgling Protestant settlement – Ireland became British.


It has suffered through ‘The Troubles’ of Northern Ireland between 1971 and the early 1990ies – with many atrocities happening, such as ‘Bloody Sunday’ and Bloody Friday in 1972 alone. Bomb attacks, grenade attacks – many with not only military but civilian victims as well – took place here. In 1994 the IRA announced a complete cease fire and a peace process started. Many murals in Belfast still evoke that part of Irish history.  

Today one of its major tourist attractions is the fact that it is the ‘launching pad’ for the ill-fated Titanic, which was designed and built by Harland & Wolff Shipyards of Belfast. A large museum, aptly called the ‘Iceberg’ near the shipyards boasts the world’s largest Titanic themed tourist attraction. Thank you, Leonardo di Caprio and the Hollywood version of Titanic….

Belfast is divided into five ‘quarters’, each with a different character but all well known for their historic architecture, such as St Anne’ Cathedral, Belfast City Hall and  the ‘leaning’ Albert Clock.


 
Of course –there are Irish Pubs at every corner. The most well-known is without a doubt the Crown Liquor Saloon, which is owned by the National Trust. Mosaics decorate the entrance floor, etched windows filter the sunlight (if any) into enclosed carved wooden booths, and a metal ceiling still boast ‘REAL’ gas lighting with net like ‘gas light bulbs’ – I haven’t seen those since my grandmother’s day. All that and the long granite bar, backed by hundreds of liquor bottles (full) and topped by numerous beer spigots, make a for a truly ‘Victorian’ pub experience – especially when accompanied by a glass of smooth Guinness and a bit of smoked wild salmon.





Unfortunately our stay here was too short to enjoy life Irish Music, as nearly every bar and pub offers evening entertainment, we had to be back aboard by 5:30 p.m. Next time….