Wednesday, July 23, 2014

23 June 2014, Edam, Holland


7 a.m. on the 23 June 2014...and the world keeps turning...
 

Five months to the day since I embarked on the MS Prinsendam. Another epic journey has ended here in Ijmuiden, Holland. But, as a last ‘hurrah’ and before climbing onto a crowded plane for a long haul to Canada, I take another look at a sample of Dutch Country.

Not a hill as far as the eye can see

Typical bridge over a country road
Holland is very small in size today; 16.8 million people call it home. Those 16.8 million humans get around on 18.2 million bicycles. No wonder, the landscape is totally flat without even a suggestion of a hill, with more km of bicycle lanes than highways – ergo pedalling your way to work or play is a breeze. They even bike in the middle of winter.

Water, meadows, sheep....

Cows grazing among the canals
Despite the high population density, Holland (The Netherlands) boasts of vast expanses of meadows where world famous Frisian cows produce tasty milk for world famous Dutch Cheeses. Much of the country lies below sea level, and hence is protected almost along its entire North Sea shoreline by Dykes. A multitude of canals cuts through the flat lands, all controlled by an intricate system of locks and gates to keep saltwater out, and rainwater in, as well as irrigating agricultural lands.
Dutch Floathomes...

If one does not build on land, one builds on water...
 
Windmills, so long relegated to outdated technology, have gained admiration amongst environmentalists because of non-polluting wind power use, work when needed to move water ‘up-hill’ and from one channel to another. There are few fences, as cows seem to stick to their bit of field surrounded by irrigation and drainage channels.

Village along a canal

Windmill to pump water from canal to canal
Small 'water mill' and drawbridge


 
Drawbridges we know from paintings by Van Gogh still dot the landscape and are in use for all kinds of traffic, apart from looking rather romantic.

Recycling of 'discards'

The Good Olde Days...

Klompen Maker in his shop
Country Folk still wear Klompen, the handmade wooden clogs, which look like Birkenstocks on steroids, and are apparently just as comfortable, as well as being waterproof. I visited one Klompen maker in his workshop, where he produces more tourist oriented footwear than utilitarian wooden shoes.

Antique Clogs

Clogs worn to go to Sunday Service

Carved Clogs

Liberace Clogs??

Tourist Clogs - 50+ Euros a pair


His workshop happens to be located in a national park called Zaanse Schanze, a stretch of flat land along a broad navigable canal, where antique windmills (still working) of the ‘industrial’ kind are preserved and (some) are open to public visits. Approaching from the far side of the canal one is treated to a quintessential Dutch Scene, where a lineup of attractive windmills just shout out for being painted.

Array of Windmills





There is almost always a breeze....


One thinks of windmills in terms of grain crushing, however, windmills were used to crush all kinds of other materials, such as chips, stones, wood etc. to be used in paint, building materials and who knows what else. The mills are ingeniously designed to rotate on their axis to catch the prevailing winds; they may have canvas ‘sails’ attached to their wings to augment wind power, or by removing the cloth, diminishing its impact on the large arms of the mill.

Colour Mill 'The Cat'


Old Photo of 'The Cat', she has not changed in a couple of hundred years...
One could climb up to the business end of the mill, the top balcony around the arms; however one look at the vertical wooden ladder disappearing into dizzying heights cured me of any temptation to see flat Holland from twenty meters up.

Wine and Cheese in Edam

Holy Cow!
I visited Edam (we all know Edam Cheese of course), where industrial strength tourism has not yet invaded the small village with a network of canals adjoining village streets. Edam has retained its quaint rural flair. A couple of Gothic churches, lots of draw bridges, wood frame and brick houses, cobbled streets, a profusion of flowering gardens, cheese shops and fragrant bakeries, as well as a few cafes – that’s it. Perfectly peaceful, it has an air of strength, balance, sturdiness and stability – but with a good dose of Dutch charm mixed into it.

Back Street in Edam

Cobble Stone Street in Edam

Three Star Cow in Edam's City Emblem

Oldest Brick House in Edam

Oldest Wooden House in Edam with a bakery next door - Cheese Sticks tasted delicious!

Norderpoort Church

There could not be a pleasanter finale to a fascinating exploration covering such a large part of our unique planet than enjoying a brisk sunny morning stroll about lush Dutch plains, admiring windmills and tasting Dutch baking and Dutch cheese.


That's how cheese was transported

Modern Cheese Shop

We won’t talk about the flight home….all that needs to be said is, it happened and it’s over.


Delft Porcelain