Thursday, March 27, 2014

25 March 2014, Mindelo, Sao Vincente, Cabo Verde


 

After five days crossing the Atlantic Ocean, the harbour of Mindelo was a welcome sight, especially as we arrived under clear blue skies (it only rains between October and December) and temperatures were bearable.

Tire Inflating Service for Bicycles

 

Mindelo is situated on the island of St. Vincent (Sao VIncente), the furthest west of the Cape Verde Island chain. It was discovered in 1450 by the Portuguese, who built a colony here, which evolved into a provisioning station for ships involved in slave trade. A hundred years of drought decimated the local population and devastated the island. After the English used it as a coal station during the steam ship era, it now flourishes again supported by a growing tourist trade.
I ate one of those, which appeared on my plate heads and all, grilled and fresh from the sea

African Imports
 

Portuguese, English and African influences have formed present day life, culture and especially music of the islands. There is afternoon tea, as well as Mediterranean style side walk restaurants serving fresh fish as well as cachupa, a stew concocted of beans, corn, meat or fish.  One may purchase African artifacts and textiles, as well as locally made baskets and woven tapestries.

Restaurant Owner, recalling his soccer playing days
 

The local music, Morna, is the best known export of the country. It was made world famous by Cesaria Evora, a local hero and singer of renown, who gained international awards during her career. She was affectionately known as the ‘Barefoot Diva’, as she never wore shoes during any of her performances, probably never wore them anywhere else either…
Pants and shirt with multiple 'repairs'...they will last a few more years...
 

During my lengthy wanderings through Mindelo, I came upon a live performance in a little café with an open air patio, just opposite the Pink Palace, which used to house the local governor. A small local cerveza and a token gift to the band got me an hour of haunting morna music, surrounded by an appreciative audience of Mindeloeans, who could not afford to enter the café, but enjoyed listening whilst lingering on the sidewalk.
Moro Player....
 
Beautiful Posture, balancing loads on their heads....

Or pushing market goods around in a wheel barrow

Homeless?? Beach side shack in Mindelo
 

A couple of fish, produce and consumer goods markets do a noisy and lively trade; a modest replica of the Belem Tower of Lisbon graces the shore; and a few colonial buildings try their best to survive the ravages of time.  Although not a wealthy island, Cape Verde prides itself to be independent, peaceful, almost crime free and on its way to grow its economy. Public works in progress, such as new streets, new docking facilities, restoration of buildings and new construction are in evidence everywhere.

Lunch Break of a street side vendor family

School is out....
 
 

Leaving Mindelo