 |
| Amalia Glacier early morning approach |
Schools of frolicking dolphins greeted the Prinsendam on her
early morning entry into the deep fjord, which terminates at the Amalie
Glacier, where it calves now and again to shed its icy edge into the sea. The
ship progressed at ‘dead slow’ speed through a sea of Bergy Bits, chunks of ice,
which made their way slowly seaward and to their inevitable melting point.
A typical fjord morning – low hanging clouds, chill air, but
a welcome absence of wind to go with it: perfect to bundle up in winter woollies
and head out to the decks of Prinsendam to enjoy the impressive vistas of the
Glacier and the stark rocky cliffs of the surrounding mountains.
Prinsendam was able to approach to within a couple of miles
of the glacier, something that would have been impossible a couple of years
ago. Over the years the glacier has receded, and open water below it expanded:
global warming! The Chilean Glaciers, especially the O’Higgins glacier way up
in the Andes, are the ones that are mostly affected by climate change, which O’Higgins
having retreated more than 8 miles in the last dozen years or so.
The far reaches of the Glacier reached back into the higher
regions of the mountains, where it opens up into the Patagonian Ice field, a
sea of white, dark violet and blue, that covers more area of land than some
countries do.
We were not alone in the vast stillness, but a small Chilean
ship made its way past the Prinsendam almost to the foot of the ice wall of the
glacier. That’s when a shallower draft and a knowledgeable local pilot come in
handy. Our Chilean guest pilot played it safe in terms of in shore navigation,
as nobody – despite abundant natural beauty – was too enchanted with the idea
of running aground in this remote corner of the world.
 |
| Chilean small cruise ship at the foot of the Glacier |
 |
| Craggy surface of the Glacier |
Aboard, things are rather subdued due to the heightened hygienic
measures as a result of ‘code red’. Apparently the number of passengers suffering
from an easily spread gastric illness is
diminishing; however, discipline is strongly enforced and encouraged. Apart from an army of staff constantly
disinfecting every surface imaginable, including leather chairs, lamps,
computer key boards, and racks for passenger photos amongst many more,
passengers are discouraged from using public washrooms (use their private ones
instead), keeping their hands not only clean but to themselves, and refraining
from perusing their photos any other way than with their eyes.
 |
| Out on deck... |
 |
| 'Bergy Bits' floating in the sea... |
Many of the ships entertainments and diversions are
cancelled or curtailed, to speed up the elimination of this viral infection.
Many people tend to blame ‘something they ate’, but most of the time it’s ‘something
they touched’. It is sometimes difficult to grasp for people that washing ones
hands in the privacy of ones cabin is not a guarantee to arrive in the dining
room with ‘clean hands’ after touching door knobs, railings, arm rests, and bar
surfaces….well, ones practices patience and common sense.
In the meantime, the Chilean Fjords are presenting
themselves at their very best, even the Captain commented on this phenomenon:
sunny, calm and endless visibility of the spectacular land and seascape of
Southern Chile – magnificent!
 |
| Well, that's where we are... |
 |
| Rio Gallego shows the small ship's icon to designate our present position...Tomorrow, Punta Arenas, the southernmost Chilean Port... |
 |
| Glorious scenery all around... |
