The latest edition of the local Tango 'revista' B.A. Tango, lists about 50 different Tango classes in Metro Buenos Aires per day, each day of the week, scheduled to start from mid-day until 11 p.m. So there is no lack of opportunity to learn. The trick is, to find amongst this extensive line up a teacher that
a) teaches the elegant and suitably sedate Tango Salon style (versus Kinetic, Nuevo, Show, Milonguero, Free Style etc etc)
b) teaches at a 'reasonable' time of day
c) teaches somewhere one can reach easily by subway and or by a short walk.
Now, once one has mastered enough 'tecnica', one may venture out to Milongas, the open tango dances. There are just as many of those as there are classes. One goes through the same selection process - and one is off to the races...except most Milongas take place at times, when normal people are in bed. Some Milongas are not even scheduled to start before midnight.
So far, yours truly has managed two classes but no milongas - yet. There is hope, though, there are plenty of late afternoon and pre midnight events as well.
This is not yours truly in the arms of Carlos Gardel.
Gardel unfortunately is one of those 'forever young' idols, who died prematurely in a plane crash (Argentina went into Mourning). Just like James Dean, Marilyn Monroe, Princess Diana, Buddy Holliday and so many others having their lives and careers cut short.
But, Gardel lives on, probably more influential now, than he ever was during his lifetime.
Paula y Orlando...who are geniuses and teaching a non latino like me how to 'feel' the music and flow with it, and dance slowly, expectantly - waiting for the man's lead, not dancing 'alone' anticipating the next step (every step is led by the man, none initiated by the woman - ever), not holding my breath trying to execute 'the right step', savouring the pauses in the dance.
Pablo y Valeria - who actually taught in Victoria, British Columbia, 2007 whilst on one of their many international show and teaching tours.
They are somewhat 'showy' in their teachings, but also offer the most demanding basic exercises. In addition they teach at the iconic Confiteria Ideal, one of the classic Tango Venues of Buenos Aires. Well, who can argue with a three hour learning stint at a cost of $12? Cheap thrills, good learning, good exercise...
But one learns to leave cameras, cell phones, credit cards at home. Tourists (of which there are a few in Confiteria Ideal) seem to attract the odd Tango thieves in the Ideal, who 'observe' classes and make off with handbags invitingly left laying on chairs for the picking. Most thieves seem to leave the stripped bags on another tale near the entrance - no good fleeing loaded with incriminating evidence.
Ergo, I dance 'padded', any pick-purse would be disappointed stealing my shoe bag. Apart from that, if my bag is taken off the table - it would cause quite a noise. But, that's my secret...
Pablo, a short wiry man with obligatory long tango hair, is a master of Piropos (the Argentinian version of 'lie-through-your-teeth' compliments on a lady's looks or dancing capabilities).
Confiteria Ideal, being conveniently and famously located downtown Buenos Aires, many tourists, expecting to learn Tango in a few short lessons, but not yet initiated to the 'codigos' (dress and manners) turn up for his classes.
Flip flops (try and turn on the balls of your feet in one of those), gym sneakers (same problem), 'comfy' shorts (a real no-no for men), high heeled mule slippers (try and glide along the floor, moving backwards, without finishing up barefooted), hiking boots (oh, the elegance of a mountainman on polished marble floors)....clues to innocent ignorance.
Teachers, ever conscious of pleasing their clients, take it in stride...global economic troubles have left their impact on Buenos Aires Tango tourism. Each client, regardless of aptitude, is a gift and another peso of income.
Unfortunately - it takes a lifetime to learn Tango, not because the steps are difficult - but the details of their execution are. And of course - passion and emotion are an essential characteristic of Tango which cannot be taught. One either has 'it' - or does not. And without passion there is no Tango.
A continuous search for perfection and that elusive otherworldy Tango emotion...understandable inspiration to keep dancing.
Here are Javier y Carla, sometimes replaced by Monica, who teach the 'serious' stuff. No high kicks, fancy acrobatics, flying leaps, but - would you believe it - the correct Tango walk, to start with, and to continue perfecting tiny details.
Sounds easy, except that walking elegantly and smoothly seems to be the most incredibly difficult thing to learn and do in Tango.
He teaches in Spanish, or more correctly Argentinian. Takes a little while to get my ear attuned to that unique way of pronounciation.
Another pleasant side of his classes - they are all in walking distance from my apartment!
It's raining in Buenos Aires just now. Keeps summer temperatures to a bearable level, and the Tango venues, some of which are in more traditional buildings without air conditioning, pleasantly cool.
Well, off to the giros, the ochos, the sacar la piernas, the caminar...
No comments:
Post a Comment