A short (almost ‘half way’) stop again at our port of origin
Ijmuiden (pronounced ‘Eyemauwden’ – sort of) brought us back to the Continent
to unload a few hundred passengers (including a number of ’free range kids’
whose departure made everyone left behind breathe a sigh of relief) and embark
new guests for the next segment of the voyage: Norway, Spitzbergen, Iceland,
and Scotland for the Grand Tattoo in Edinburgh.
Too short a lay-over to undertake a journey to Amsterdam,
but a convenient ride to charming Haarlem allows a quick taste of Holland again
– canals, windmills, cheese and all.
Ijmuiden had just suffered its worst summer storm in
recorded history since the last time I visited two weeks ago. Hurricane force
winds caused immense damage, not the least being hundreds of trees being felled
by the storm. But, with Dutch efficiency, little of it remained visible. Many
trees had been cleared away and sawn into segments of trunks and piled into
mountains of green leafed branches awaiting removal. In rural areas many trees
still lay where they fell, and debris littered the road sides.
Today, forecast for intermittent cloud and sunshine – hoping
for sunshine!
A walkable town, one may wander through winding streets,
along old ‘grachten’ and nibble at a plate of tasty Dutch cheese morsels whilst
watching the to and fro on the large market place (Grote Markt) beside the
Great Church of St Bavo (cathedral) and its historic town hall. The market
place appears almost unchanged since earlier centuries – old etchings could
have been drawn up today.
A well preserved windmill watches over canal traffic along
the Spaame canal. Motor yachts, sailing vessels, as well as canal barges and
sightseeing vessels pass under or at times ‘through’ a number of bridges, which
either rotate on their axis or raise up to let higher vessels transit. Some
interesting ‘parking’ maneuvres of visiting vessels entertain a casual
onlooker.
A very good museum houses works by Frans Hals, contemporary
of Rembrand, and famous for his evocative portraits of Dutch citizens. I save
it up for another time.
Instead, I decided to stroll through the picturesque streets
and along the colourful grachten, and to enjoy a general day of R&R before
rejoining the ship.
Ijmuiden departure proved quite challenging, with three tugs
needed to assist Prinsendam pushed and battered by gale force winds (on the
beam) in order to turn her around (without running into shoals or navigation
buoys) to face the sea and make her way into the spray covered and storm
whipped North Sea.
We passed the long Ijmuiden beach, where instead of swimmers,
quite a number of intrepid kite surfers braved the elements.
The blades of
electricity generating windmills (these
ones erected in the open sea) turned steadily, with their bases firmly planted
on the sea floor.
Most of the new passengers were not so firmly planted on the
decks, as Prinsendam pitched and yawed her way through the swells and waves,
sometimes complaining with thunderous groans from her nether regions when
hitting an especially large one. Boat Safety drills were conducted as required,
however, passengers having to muster on ‘the windy side’ were redirected to go
through the drill in one of the bars and the restaurant (at least they had not
too far to wobble for a quick refreshment after the drill). Strategic points
throughout the ship are stocked with sick-bags, we are in for a rocky night.
Out to new adventures – a stormy sea-day awaits, before
reaching the coast of Norway and its serene and tranquil fjords….
Haarlem Now |
Haarlem Then.... |