Friday, July 31, 2015

St Peter Port, Guernsey, Channel Islands


 

Guernsey, famous for its brown dairy cows, welcomed us with another ‘marginal’ sea state. Prinsendam anchored in the lee of the island and was barely sufficiently protected to tender the daring ashore. Now ‘dungeon like’ landing pier awaited us here, but a brand new floating dock with all the comforts one may wish for, except of course dry weather.

A lovely little port on an island close to France, which is obvious when strolling the local shopping scene which abound with boutiques inspired by French fashion and French prices. French language is evident in street names, names of mansions and of stores and restaurants, which often offer their fare on French menues with French fare.

I strolled along the harbour front, looking for the ferry to Herm Island close by (great for hiking its verdant 1.5x1 mile expanse) however, all ferries, including the ones to an alternative island Sark, were cancelled due to strong winds. Ok, land-based diversion it shall be.



Although there is a castle, a church, various museums e.t.c., I opted for a leisurely stroll through the quaint town streets, and a look at the many marina basins – many of them showing their low tide face with some boats resting on the mucky bottom. Birds, like oyster catcher, hunted and foraged in the seaweed, and one boater had driven his SUV down the boat ramp to park beside his grounded boat for some maintenance work.

Midtown has a busy bus terminal, with public transport reaching  the interior of the island as well as doing a ‘coastal’ route. One Pound Sterling bought an around-the-island ticket, and one could watch the scenery roll by from the comfort and dryness of a slow moving public bus.

One passes wild and rocky coast lines, long sandy beaches, protected and rather ‘open’ fishing harbours. In the latter the boats were bouncing up and down close to forbidding rocks, tethered to the sea bottom with long ground tackle, if not – as in many coastal areas here – firmly sitting on the sea weed covered sea bed at low tide.



The coast line is dotted with round stone watch towers and concrete bunkers, dating back to German occupation during WWII. There is a German built underground military hospital, which is located in one of the tunnel complexes underneath the bunkers.

Fort Grey, situated on a rocky outcrop and easily recognized by its white round tower reaching above the fort’s wall, dates back a little further.

Although Guernsey is famous for its dairy cows, I did not see a single one chewing her cud on the many fields. Neither could I track down a flower shop on an island that prides itself of its gardens, flowery adornments of its streets and widespread freesia producers.



A pleasant little town, picturesque harbour, sophisticated shopping and bistro scene, pleasant land and seascape….a fitting finale to a circumnavigation of the United Kingdom and Ireland….

The only tango in St Peter Port.....