Bruggen in Bergen |
Bergen, gateway to the Fjords of Norway, was founded Olav
Kyrre in 1070 AD and became Norway’s first capital in the 13th century. In 1360 the
German Hanseatic League set up one of its import and export offices at Bryggen,
site of the original foundations of the city and today a UNESCO World Heritage
Site. As part of the Hanseatic League, its protected seafaring and trading port
helped to propel the city into the circle of major importance in what was then
an ‘European’ Market. The Hansa dominated trade for about 400 years.
Bryggen and its wooden buildings has been ravaged several
times, and the fire of 1702 reduced the city to ashes. However, reconstruction after
the fire recreated the old wooden warehouses and office-buildings on the old
foundations, and thus, this part of the city remains virtually unchanged since
its history began. Today it is an intriguing maze of alleys with wood planked
‘streets’ and overhanging delivery ‘windows’ filled with shops, galleries and
restaurant – a popular spot to sit on the old broad wharf and enjoy some people
watching – if the weather cooperates.
Alley in Bruggen District |
If one feels so inclined, one may purchase some Norwegian
knitwear – pure wool and with typical Nordic designs – at rather high prices.
One also may purchase a variety of furs, either ‘on the hoof’ so to speak or
transformed into stoles, scarfs, necklaces, jackets, bags, shoes etc. Hundreds
of arctic fox pelts dangle from the racks, none of the dead foxes looks too
happy….
Wildlife in Bergen |
Bergen was designated as ‘European City of Culture’ in 2000.
One of the sons of Bergen is Edvard Grieg, famous composer (Holberg Suite comes
to mind). One would need a couple of
months just to visit all the museums – open air or under a roof – and some more
time to enjoy the many concert venues.
To see the city from ‘above’ I made my way to the funicular
that takes a traveller up to Mount Floyen, where numerous trails invite to
pleasant hikes.
Parts of the park teem with ‘trolls’ and goblins, and children
are warned not to pet the ‘baby dinosaurs’.
Painted Goblins |
Natural Goblins and Trolls |
Carved Trolls |
It rained, but armed with an umbrella I traipsed around the
mountain top for awhile meeting trolls – but no dinosaurs - before heading back
down to explore the ‘Fish Market’.
Fish Market |
Travel brochures describe the Fish Market as a typical local
experience, where one may lunch on giant crab, whale meat, reindeer hotdogs,
crayfish(lobster without claws) and a whole slew of various species of fish and
mollusks – mostly sold and cooked on site by Portuguese and Asian fishermen and
cooks.
Tempting indeed, but potentially the most expensive meal ever ingested.
A fish and chips plate runs around $US 20, and a beer about half of that.
Crab?? Worth a king’s ransom!
Fresh local berries are sold at 6 Euro a serving
–delicious looking! Despite the rain which sometimes dumped urban waterfalls
from market tents, people crowded into the open air eateries and enjoyed a
taste of Norwegian seafood.
An attractive city indeed, with much to offer inside and
outside its perimeter… surrounding fjords and historic buildings such as wooden
stave churches nearby beckon and a myriad of islets offer birdwatching and
fishing.
Despite the somewhat ‘inclement’ weather, Bergen proved to
be a memorable city to visit and maybe return to at a future date.