Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Bergen, Norway, 1 August 2015


Bruggen in Bergen


 

Bergen, gateway to the Fjords of Norway, was founded Olav Kyrre in 1070 AD and became Norway’s first capital in  the 13th century. In 1360 the German Hanseatic League set up one of its import and export offices at Bryggen, site of the original foundations of the city and today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As part of the Hanseatic League, its protected seafaring and trading port helped to propel the city into the circle of major importance in what was then an ‘European’ Market. The Hansa dominated trade for about 400 years.

Bryggen and its wooden buildings has been ravaged several times, and the fire of 1702 reduced the city to ashes. However, reconstruction after the fire recreated the old wooden warehouses and office-buildings on the old foundations, and thus, this part of the city remains virtually unchanged since its history began. Today it is an intriguing maze of alleys with wood planked ‘streets’ and overhanging delivery ‘windows’ filled with shops, galleries and restaurant – a popular spot to sit on the old broad wharf and enjoy some people watching – if the weather cooperates.


Alley in Bruggen District
 
If one feels so inclined, one may purchase some Norwegian knitwear – pure wool and with typical Nordic designs – at rather high prices.
 
One also may purchase a variety of furs, either ‘on the hoof’ so to speak or transformed into stoles, scarfs, necklaces, jackets, bags, shoes etc. Hundreds of arctic fox pelts dangle from the racks, none of the dead foxes looks too happy….



Wildlife in Bergen
Bergen was designated as ‘European City of Culture’ in 2000. One of the sons of Bergen is Edvard Grieg, famous composer (Holberg Suite comes to mind).  One would need a couple of months just to visit all the museums – open air or under a roof – and some more time to enjoy the many concert venues.


To see the city from ‘above’ I made my way to the funicular that takes a traveller up to Mount Floyen, where numerous trails invite to pleasant hikes.

 
Parts of the park teem with ‘trolls’ and goblins, and children are warned not to pet the ‘baby dinosaurs’.


Painted Goblins


Natural Goblins and Trolls


Carved Trolls

It rained, but armed with an umbrella I traipsed around the mountain top for awhile meeting trolls – but no dinosaurs - before heading back down to explore the ‘Fish Market’.

Fish Market
Travel brochures describe the Fish Market as a typical local experience, where one may lunch on giant crab, whale meat, reindeer hotdogs, crayfish(lobster without claws) and a whole slew of various species of fish and mollusks – mostly sold and cooked on site by Portuguese and Asian fishermen and cooks.




 
Tempting indeed, but potentially the most expensive meal ever ingested. A fish and chips plate runs around $US 20, and a beer about half of that. Crab?? Worth a king’s ransom!
 
Fresh local berries are sold at 6 Euro a serving –delicious looking! Despite the rain which sometimes dumped urban waterfalls from market tents, people crowded into the open air eateries and enjoyed a taste of Norwegian seafood.

An attractive city indeed, with much to offer inside and outside its perimeter… surrounding fjords and historic buildings such as wooden stave churches nearby beckon and a myriad of islets offer birdwatching and fishing.

Despite the somewhat ‘inclement’ weather, Bergen proved to be a memorable city to visit and maybe return to at a future date.