Durres, second largest city in Albania after Tirana, is named after Dyrrachion, favourite grandson of Illirian King Epodamnos, who lived around 627 BC. 30 B.C. the Illirian culture was absorbed by the Roman Empire, and later in 395 A.D. by the Byzantine Empire.
Albania has long been under communist rule, and it shows. It is a mix of remnants of antiquity and communist Ugly with dozens of half finished present day buildings added for variety.
Remnants of the old Roman installations are still existing, but - as almost everything else in this city - in a sad state of disrepair and decay.
There is a Roman amphitheatre dating back to 2nd century A.D. which today is invaded by domestic turkeys and chickens who peck around the ancient stones. In the now overgrown antique arena, residents harvest dandelion leaves, decrepit buildings back onto the amphitheatre and the whole thing is slowly falling to bits. Underneath the theatre is a Byzantine chapel with mosaics on it's wall.
Remnants of a Roman Forum/Bath are located in a different part of the city; kids play soccer in it.
A few Roman columns are left on the beach side promenade, and they have been improved with graffiti by the locals.
The town has suffered a terrible Visigoth invasion sometime around 481 A.D., and city walls were built sometime after that. Remnants of these walls are still standing, a couple of Venetian Towers were added as well in the 14th Century. These towers have been modified and now are used as restaurants, cafes and shops. Walking around the weedy path surrounding these old edifices one dodges garbage, human and dog feces and the odd discarded condom.
There is a main drag which is partly beautified with palm trees and small city parks. Despite being a Sunday, almost all shops are open as well as 'cafes'. The shops are reflecting the general poverty of the country, with good reminiscent of dollar stores and clothes styled a la communist drab. The cafes seem to be more like speak-easies or bars, filled exclusively with glum looking men. I entered one small cafe to take a coffee as an excuse to use a bathroom, and was promptly shown the door by the owner, it seems females are not desirable customers. There are dozens of 'casinos', betting shops, betting cafes, a good number of internet shops as well as cell phone shops. However, later in the day, when the sun started to come out, a few 'bistro' or fast food type places brought out chairs, and couples and females frequented them.
Older men walk around in suits, jackets, overcoats and battered fedoras; older women in skirts, thick stockings and heavy shoes and kerchiefs. The younger crowd seems to like torn jeans and jackets, young women go for platform shoes or boots with 10 inch heels.
There is a beach side promenade in town, lined with decrepit hotels - most seemed out of business. Some mid-way attractions offer family entertainment beside a couple of monuments, which depict strong men brandishing guns. A man with an adult brown bear on a leash wandered about the Sunday afternoon strollers on the promenade. The bear acted as tame as a dog.
A bony 'garbage' horse trotted lamely by, pulling a little cart.
To cheer things up, a few locals suspend bird cages from their windows, and canaries fill the air with happy twitter.
On the promenade, kids rode some of the midway rides, or drove their bicycles through submerged parts of the promenade; pop corn sellers fed the numerous pigeons; everybody else was just enjoying the afternoon sun.
People returning from tours to Tirana, the Capital City of Albania had a better story to tell...four lane highway, nice buildings, attractive museums...a city on the go according to the tour guides. Some of the treasures of old have been saved from the ravages of the long communist/tyrannical rule and are turning up in museums.
Albania is a closed book to me as far as it's recent history is concerned, all I know that it's past has been violent, repressive and depressing. Macedonia, Croatia, Serbia, Herzegovina, Kosovo, Bosnia, Montenegro...all countries in constant upheaval to this day. Just a few days ago, some Albanians were killed in one of the frequent border skirmishes.
Mother Theresa, one of Albania's most famous natives, probably knew what she was doing when she decided to do her Good Works in India instead of her native Albania.
Statue on Beach Promenade
Taking the sun...in the background a semifinished pavillon
'Sunken' Promenade...covered in water
The 'Beach' ajoining the Promenade lined with presently apparently vacant hotels
Youths enjoying the sunny afternoon along beach and promenade
One of the few prettier buildings in Durres
The old Roman Anphitheatre
Turkey Brigade foraging in the amphitheatre
Tourist bus getting 'under the fallen wire' with the help of a few by standers, a stepladder and a broom to lift the wire high enough.
Concrete column at a corner with death notices
Football field - the old Roman Forum and Baths
Apartment dwelling
Street scene in old Durres
Durres Gentleman aand Beggar Lady
Selection in a Book Store...quite the emphasis on WWII and it's tyrants.
Street side cafe, some of them almost exclusively for men only
Bringing a little Cheer into the neighbourhood, a canary singing happily
I jumped a few ports, Greece etc....and will update on them later....
