Melilla is one of two Spanish enclaves in Marocco on the north coast of
Africa, the other one is slighly smaller Ceuta, to the west of Melilla.Melilla dates a long time before the Spanish take over in 1497 (the
same year that Giovanno Caboto discovered Bonavista in Newfoundland),
and represents a blend of Berber, Sephardic, Christian and Hindu
cultures. Phoenicians and Romans counted Melilla, then called Rusadir,
among their network of ports in the Mediterranean.Today's frontiers of Melilla were set in 1904, when three cannon shots
were fired from the highest point in the City, and the shortest shot
was the defining factor, ergo Melilla is around 12 km across.Franco launched the Spanish Civil war from here in 1936..
The OLD Melilla was contained inside fortress walls, to protect
inhabitants from pirates and foreign invasions. Inside the fortress are
the remains of a Gothic chapel, the only gothic building in Africa
All citizens take a break for lunch, when the city shuts down. But
yours truly found 'La Cerveceria' (recommended by a local lady), where
quite a number of locals congregate for a draft and free tapas to go
with it. Those tapas are a culinary mirror of the mix of
cultures...African and European spices and herbs enhance fresh catches
from the sea.Almost an unidentifyable hole in the wall (no advertisind or signs
outside) it nevetheless advertised itself through sound of animated
conversation audible from the outside. Wall to wall people....perfect.One sat on a settee, constructed of colourful tile mosaics, surrounded
by ornate art deco mirrors, floral designs in wall tiles, and elaborate
chandeliers. Beer flowed from polished brass taps.The place was hopping
- not a single ship passenger in sight apart from myself and another
lady who had accompanied me. We started to converse in Spanish and
English with a neighbouring local couple. After the wife disappeared
for a few moments to the washroom, my companion was promptly
complimented on her sexy looks and invited to visit Marocco...the wife
would not mind, he said.
Well, it is a mix of cultures...the beer was good, the tapas even
better, the ambiance delightful, and the price extremely affordable.My friend did not disappear direction Marocco, despite the tempting
invitation to join a private harem.
The modern city is a find for admirers of Art Nouveau and Art Deco
architecture. Until around 1910 nobody lived outside the City walls,
but after pirate days were over, the city spread out, and flourished
duringthe 'modernist' design era. Henri Nieto, a contemporary of the
famous Gaudi, designed one of the major buildings downtown.
The city counts about 70.000 inhabitants plus a large number of
illegals from neighbouring Marocco, a stone throw away. 140.000 people
cross the border each day - and a few forget to return home. Some take
the ferry to Spanish Mainland, however, Maroccan Spanish citizens
return usually in short order, as Spain as an Euro country is much more
expensive than little Melilla.
