Arabian Spring in Tunesia

Lybian gas sold street side for lower price than Tunesian gas.

Lamb Barbequie...there they are, waiting their turn to become grilled lamb shish kebab, in background right hangs the fleece of the chops on the BBQ, as well what is still left of the slaughtered sheep.

Fatima's hand brings luck to tourists as well - in shape of appetizer dishes

Kilims everywhere....

And the must have 'camel chairs'

29 March 2012 in Sousse, Welcome to Tunisia
Tunisia, the originator of what we now recognize as the 'Arabian Spring'.
Even before the last upheaval in 2011, Tunisia was one of the more 'liberal' Arabian (Islamic) countries: free universal education for all children between 6 and 16
years, male and female. Equal rights for women as for men (vote, education, work, drive a vehicle, divorce). Monogamy is the law; there is reasonable tolerance for non
islamic religions albeit Tunisia is 98% Muslim; Women enjoy the option to veil or go bareheaded; women and men are praying together in the same prayer room of the
mosques (but on different sides, to save the men from the enticing view of bent over female bodies).There are female politicians, professionals, fighter pilots, soldiers and officers - they work just about everywhere.
But, a few interesting societal oddities remain. The cafes are still occupied by men only for instance, weddings still happen very early in life (females often marry
at 16) and cost a small fortune, meat is kept on the hoof until ready to eat etc etc...
We experienced our very own local oddity. It started with a prolonged wait of Prinsendam at anchor off the Sousse inneer harbour, before the powers called Immigration
and Customs condescended sufficiently to board us at our anchorage and clear the ship and permit passengers to tender ashore. Ok, now we knew that these spiffily uniformed North African General look-alikes were in charge. All shore excursions started at least an hour and a half late...but
they finally started.
No specific docks in the inner harbour for tenders to use, and the harbour dock walls were too high for anybody to clamber from tenders directly onto land. We used the
port's pilot boat as an intermediate 'ramp' and made it ashore via make shift steps and gangways.
As told in previous blog posts, the visit to El Djem's amphitheatre and Roman mosaics made the stay an impressive and memorable one.
Last tender from shore back to the ship a few miles out in deeper water (anything close to shore is too shallow to allow navigation of a big vessel like Prinsendam)
was scheduled to depart at 4:30 p.m. After a short stroll through the maze of Sousse's Souk, I had made it back in time to catch the allegedly 'last-chance' tender
back to the ship. But low and behold, I noticed that several tenders were on their way back to shore - after drop dead time - and they were empty. Another AHA moment: all the 'longer'shore excursions were still gallivanting around in some part of the Tunesian desert - as they all had departed too late to get back
in time.The ship waits...
But, lucky us, by 5:30 p.m. the stragglers were also back aboard and we were ready for our anchors aweigh good-bye. The Pilot boat nuzzled Prinsendam, all local Officials in their still crisp uniforms were aboard the big ship and in the process of clearing the ship for departure.Except Prinsendam's powerful engines remained silent and her anchor was still firmly rooted in the sea bed- there was a 'problem' but not with Prinsendam. The local
Pilot boat - rumor had it - had been 'damaged' by the 'rough treatment' it received from all our tenders using it as a ramp - with local permission of course. It must
be the tenderest pilot tender in the whole world, these things take a beating every time they bounce agains steel hulls of ocean liners when transferring pilots during
heaving seas. Well, that was sufficient reason for a lenghty delay in what is euphemistically called 'documentation and paperwork' unless compensation for the alleged 'damage' was
forthcoming - in cash I would suppose.
No official news, but a bland statement from the bridge apologizing for the 'clearance delay' tended us over, whilst delicate high diplomacy negotiations must have
been going on somewhere aboard Prinsendam between the Local Officialdom and our Ship's Officers.
Whatever the agreement was - I doubt there ever was one - we finally hoisted anchor at 8:00 p.m. - three hours later than expected.Life aboard just went on as usual...the ship threaded it's way through various fishing fleets during the night. I conducted the nightly 'de-rattling routine' to the
cabin's sliding closet door. It rattles in tune with the ship's speed: the more knots of speed, the more irritating the rattle. Skillful and precise placing of Kleenex
tissue quietens the noise down until the next time the mirrored door is opened.
A bit of trivia....Tunis has the record for the longest war. The Punic Wars between ROme and Carthago (now a Tunis suburg) officially lasted from 264 BC to 1985 AD (2249 years). The
majors of tthe two cities signed a treaty in '85 to formally end their supposed enmity.
And camels have two rows of eyelashes to repel dirt and dust - lucky creatures, no mascara for them.

Roman Mosaics - Scene from myth and daily life

Paradisic gardens...

Lion killing a donkey

With lion number two helping...

Tiger killing horse in Gladiator Spectacles...

Part of mosaic in Owl Room of Museum

Symmetric design of dolphins and water fowl

Dolphin detail

Ornate designs in large mosaic

Gladiator loosing battle against lion...

Just a few more images from an unforgettable visit to a museum filled with incredibly beautiful - and sometimes showing violent events - mosaics dating back to Rome during the time of Christ.

Faces of Romans of Thysdrus near El Djem, Sousse

Too beautiful to leave out - a marble sculpture

A modest small museum in El Djem, built on the ruined grounds and remains of an elegant Roman villa, houses an exquisite collection of Roman mosaics.
The walls and floors of the great rooms and court yards in the ancient mansions of the wealthy Romans used to be covered in precious works of art, many made from glass mosaic tiles, which have not lost their colour nor their impact over millennia.
Depending on the function of the room, mosaics depicted ingredients for sumptious meals in dining rooms (fish, fruit, game, vegetables, wine) , ornamental art in living- and bedrooms (hunting scenes, games scenes or mythological legends) - some mosaics being several meters high and wide - all stunning in their beauty, design, composition, colour, content and especially detail.
Here a portrait gallery of Roman Citizens and Roman deities.

Roman Amphitheatre in El Djem, Sousse, Tunisia

El Djem Amphitheatre

Detail of Column on Amphitheatre

Three tiers, the bleachers are way up there...

Souvenir mosaic of El Djem

For anyone interested - a towel map of Tunisia

El Djem Street scene

Sousse, Tunisia, on the north coast of Africa, another cultural crossroad.
Nearby town of El Djem has the third largest amphitheatre in the Roman Empire, the largest is the Colosseum in Rome, and the second largest the now ruined theatre at Capua. Built between 230 and 223 BC it seated approximately 30,000 spectators. Thirty six meters high, it was built in three tiers, the lowest and closest to the ring for the VIP's of the time, the next level up for the annual ticket holders, and the highest one for the drop in visitors. Each level was built with a steeper slope in order to maintain good acustics and unobstructed views of the action for every seat.
In the 'basement' under the floor of the stadium are the chambers for gladiators, who could get fabulously rich if they survived long enough to reach the upper echelon in their profession. 75% succumbed to mortal injuries sustained in battle against wild beasts and human foes before they ever got past slave status. Opposite the underground gladiator rooms are a row of chambers, which were occupied by the captured wild animals kept hungry to enjure a vicious fight.
Performances in the amphitheatre ranged from Gladiator fights (part of the movie The Gladiator was shot here), to ferocious battles between human and animals opponents, concerts, plays, sometimes open debates etc etc - 7 days non stop entertainment all year around.
Most Roman theatres are not free standing (too expensive to construct even in those years) like this one, but carved into the side of mountains or slopes or on summits of hills. The 'carved' ones were mostly semi circular, whereas the free standing ones are circular. The Emperor or whoever Ruler was in force had tow special balconiies on the premium level - one to keep the sun out of his eyes during morning performances, and one at the opposite end to keep the sun out of his eyes during afternoon shows. Rank comes with privileges - even then.

27 March 2012 - Cartagena, Spain

In a few winks, from last night to this morning, we returned from Africa back to Europe, Cartagena on the Mediterranean Coast of Spain to be exact. A bit of continent hopping overnight.
Anpother port that has its origins in the dim dark ages:

City Wall

Municipal Building

Hasdrubal, a Carthaginian general founded it in 228 BC and stayed there until 221 BC.In 219 Hasrubal's brother in law, the famous Hannibal brought his armies and elephants to Iberia and defeated the forces who had taken root there.Then Gold got into the picture, and Publius Cornelius Scipio Africanus captured the city in 206 BC, and exported gold, and mined silver in the surrounding country side.600 years later the Goths noticed (a little slow) the wealth, and sacked the city in AD 425.AD 711 saw General Tariq of Moorish origin seize the city and commenced to restore some order and rebuild it. The Moorish reign lasted for 700 years.In 1269 AD the King of Aragon took over, ending Islamic rule.In 1888 Isaac Peral, a local citizen, built a small unassuming submarine, powered by two 30hp engines - the first of it's kind and still around as a monument at today's harbour front.1936-1939 it served as the Naval Base for the Spanish Civil War.

Palm Sunday and Semana Santa are next week, so the stores are filled with children

A heady mix. Spain's economic crisis is evident, though: empty building lots, half completed structures, fronted by preserved art deco walls, closed stores, groups of unemployed young men, crisis prices tell the story of a city in trouble.Tourists take advantage of lowered prices, and still populate open air cafes and visit dozens of museums and galleries.Sunshine and balmy temperatures made exploring the city an enjoyable day.

Just a wall, with an empty lot behind it. The art deco front is preserved.

No wonder, the city is a mosaic of ancient, antique, old and new architectural styles. Citizens are afraid to dig foundations for new buildings (or renovating old ones) as sure as anything - there is another archeological find - end of development! Some of the most impressive roman ruins were only discovered a couple of decades ago.
Roman structures (their plethora of games and amphitheatres beat any hockey play offs and arenas in Canada - none would last a couple of thousand years) are evident here again. Forts and fortifications, defensive walls and look out towers, refuge and communication tunnels compete with medieval and baroque churches and art deco and art nouveau street scapes.

History lesson - not a cell phone in sight, and not a single child is texting...

Wall Art in downtown Cartagena

The Hero of Trafalgar lived here...

...his home a litle dilapidated, but still impressive.

Off again to Africa tonight....Tunisia is waiting.

26 March 2012 - It's Monday, it must be Africa...

We silently slipped through the Straits of Gibraltar in the dark of
night, buffeted by strong winds and battling strong countercurrents.
Destination Melilla, a 'fair weather port' on the north coast of the
African Continent. Fortunately the weather prooved fair enough to dock,
but not fair enough to experience African heat. No! On the contrary -
wind, drizzle, chill - almost like BC or maybe Scotland.

Melilla is one of two Spanish enclaves in Marocco on the north coast of
Africa, the other one is slighly smaller Ceuta, to the west of Melilla.Melilla dates a long time before the Spanish take over in 1497 (the
same year that Giovanno Caboto discovered Bonavista in Newfoundland),
and represents a blend of Berber, Sephardic, Christian and Hindu
cultures. Phoenicians and Romans counted Melilla, then called Rusadir,
among their network of ports in the Mediterranean.Today's frontiers of Melilla were set in 1904, when three cannon shots
were fired from the highest point in the City, and the shortest shot
was the defining factor, ergo Melilla is around 12 km across.Franco launched the Spanish Civil war from here in 1936..

The OLD Melilla was contained inside fortress walls, to protect
inhabitants from pirates and foreign invasions. Inside the fortress are
the remains of a Gothic chapel, the only gothic building in Africa

All citizens take a break for lunch, when the city shuts down. But
yours truly found 'La Cerveceria' (recommended by a local lady), where
quite a number of locals congregate for a draft and free tapas to go
with it. Those tapas are a culinary mirror of the mix of
cultures...African and European spices and herbs enhance fresh catches
from the sea.Almost an unidentifyable hole in the wall (no advertisind or signs
outside) it nevetheless advertised itself through sound of animated
conversation audible from the outside. Wall to wall people....perfect.One sat on a settee, constructed of colourful tile mosaics, surrounded
by ornate art deco mirrors, floral designs in wall tiles, and elaborate
chandeliers. Beer flowed from polished brass taps.The place was hopping
- not a single ship passenger in sight apart from myself and another
lady who had accompanied me. We started to converse in Spanish and
English with a neighbouring local couple. After the wife disappeared
for a few moments to the washroom, my companion was promptly
complimented on her sexy looks and invited to visit Marocco...the wife
would not mind, he said.
Well, it is a mix of cultures...the beer was good, the tapas even
better, the ambiance delightful, and the price extremely affordable.My friend did not disappear direction Marocco, despite the tempting
invitation to join a private harem.

The modern city is a find for admirers of Art Nouveau and Art Deco
architecture. Until around 1910 nobody lived outside the City walls,
but after pirate days were over, the city spread out, and flourished
duringthe 'modernist' design era. Henri Nieto, a contemporary of the
famous Gaudi, designed one of the major buildings downtown.
The city counts about 70.000 inhabitants plus a large number of
illegals from neighbouring Marocco, a stone throw away. 140.000 people
cross the border each day - and a few forget to return home. Some take
the ferry to Spanish Mainland, however, Maroccan Spanish citizens
return usually in short order, as Spain as an Euro country is much more
expensive than little Melilla.