Monday, February 28, 2011

A Sunday in San Telmo


Whatever you do in San Telmo, here is a warning:
It is prohibited to gallop through the streets of the village, municipal by-law Art 36/30, Fine 10 Pesos.
OK, ones takes heed!

I spent the grand sum of 35 cents to travel by bus for about half an hour from Palermo to San Telmo, which is one of the prime destinations on a Sunday for locals and tourists alike. Reason: an absolutely incredible antique fair on Plaza Telmo, as well as a host of street performers plying their trade.
According to 'Frommers': San Telmo is the birth-place of Buenos Aires.It evolved from a 19th century elite residential neighbourhood of aristrocratic families and palatial residences to a rough and tumble district of conventillos (multi-family tenements). During the second half of the 20th century it slid into further disrepute. Now, new hotels, restaurants, clubs and art galleries spearhead another transformation into a fashionable, if somewhat scruffy, district.

Example of one of the 'mansions', now turned into apartments, shops, or boutique hotels.

Of course, with La Boca and Caminito (the birth-place of tango) so close, what else but a street dedicated to Tango.
Plaza Dorrego is occupied by dozens of vendor stalls in the centre under shady trees. The surrounding streets are filled with one open air cafe after another.
Coloured Crystal
Feather dusters anyone?

Copper pots, which look good here, as they are continuously polished by the vendor. Unless I could buy the polisher together with the pots....no copper pots for me.

Saddlery items in one of the many antique stores surrounding the plaza
Soda fountain bottles in almost every colour imaginable
I am an honest man, would I try and charge you more than what it is worth????
One gallery example...

Kids seem to be interested - or disinterested - in similar things all over the world. Hundreds of people trudged by this little guy, absorbed in his toy electronic game.

Plaine Aire Concerto de Aranjuez

Oswaldo y su mujer....they seem to be a permanent icon of Plaza Dorrego, performing their tango on a couple of sheets of ply wood on top of the cobble stones. Everybody who ever visited Buenos Aires has seen these two wonderful old, but vivacious people, who must be the most famous street performers in the entire city.

Youth before a sign indicating direction to the Penitentiary Museum
Street adjoining Plaza Dorrego

Cantante singing favourites of his idol, Carlos Gardel.
Street vendor kid, practising folkloric drums
Empanadas anyone, or maybe bonbons?

Counting donations after an open air tango performance. Would anyone, who was not borne here, or has any brains, DARE to dance on those cobble stone streets with stiletto heels?