Carlos Gardel, the hero and inspiration to all tangoistas all over the world. To this day, his voice moves listeners to tears - especially if they are able to understand the lyrics.


Argentina evokes images of vast Pampas, lofty Andean Peaks, countless cattle, Gouchos living on nothing but meat (honestly), Peronistas, bloody revolutions, eclectic architecture, polo, soccer, world-class literature and last but not least - the Tango.


So off I went to the Esquina Gardel in the barrio of Abasto to walk in the masters footsteps.
That is after I took a tango lesson with a present day master: Miguel Angel Pla (who experienced an epiphamy some time ago and wisely changed his career from Medicine to Tango).
More than one hour of 'precision' instruction and practica about the finer points in the 'how' of placing ones feet....outer edge, inner edge, straight leg, bent knees, correct frame but nevertheless relaxed, well timed weight transfer, caressing the floor with the sole of ones shoe (that goes for caressing the man's leg as well, just an extension of the floor concept), knees almost pinched together...a marathon which made my knees creak louder than the background tango music.

The traditional art form of Filete (almost like Bavarian/Austrian decorative painting) is still alive in Buenos Aires. As there are no more horse drawn carts which used to be embellished with these adornments, the artists now paint the outside of historic buildings, or create stand alone pieces, which are sold in art galleries or artisan markets.

Which is to say, that some filete artists are not satisfied eternalizing flowers, birds, curly cues - but revert to the female form. The animal, which supports the enticing Eva in above picture, seems to be rather crushed by all the weight placed on his head.

In preparation for my first Milonga, I went in search of acceptable dancing shoes. (apparently one's chances of capturing the eye of a potential dancing partner are influenced by that assessory - the higher the heels, the higher the probability to get the 'nod', the customary way of asking a lady for a dance).

The shoe choices are almost overwhelming - stylish, sexy, murderous to feet who have been walking the earth for more than a few decades. But, not to dispair! Buy a pair made to order, which is almost normal here in this land of soft leather and accomplished artisans.

Getting ready to kick up my - rather low - heels!!!