Monday, March 16, 2015

La Ultima Semana.....

Last week of Summer down here in Buenos Aires, and at the same time it is the last week of my stay.
Between paseos in the city, tango, and the last few concerts - a typical week full of experiences! 
Recycling has arrived in Palermo. That means, that instead of loose plastic bags filled with mixed garbage lining the sidewalks every night, we now have large garbage bins - at least in Palermo, whereas many of the outlying suburbs still do the 'toss out and wait' routine. Albeit, the bins are emptied ever night, 'cartoneros' (people who collect cardboard from these bins to sell to recyclers - thus making their living) still dumpster dive during the day and remove 'items of interest'. Some pull little carts, some use a horse drawn cart ta carry away their merchandise.

For the horse: Weekday....
 
....Sunday...
On Sundays, the garbage horses are cleaned up and pull carriages around Palermo, loaded with local and foreign tourist to take a little spin around the parks and streets of Palermo.
 

Meat store at the Corner - Antonito's. Palermo is 'developing', that means many of the historic buildings are torn down to make room for multi storied apartment buildings - slowly erasing the quaint village atmosphere of Palermo.

Still taking lessons...and hoping not to forget most of it before returning here next year...
Election Year in Argentina. The incumbent President is seen here communicating with her admirers from a gallery in the Casa Rosada....there are rumblings of discontent: weak economy, weaker dollar - or no dollars at all -, spectacular inflation, rising public debt, rising crime and violence in the streets and everywhere else, alleged corruption, social unrest, alleged cover ups and money launderings, disastrously failing infra structure, shortage or lack of consumer items (such as tampons and contact lenses) due to import restrictions, and somewhat shaky democratic values - and 'Nisman Gate' to top it all.
According to the government, things have been 'mejorando', getting better, since their assumption of power. Well, at least for the football fans that statement holds true: the Government spent fourteen times more money on 'Futbol Para Todos' (Soccer for Everyone) than on building schools. Well, I guess that's why their teams and players always finish up on top. The fan clubs (barras) are stronger as well, and barras bravas (fans from hell) keep killing each other off with astonishing regularity, with the odd police victim to round things out.

Summer Evening over Buenos Aires - how often have I crossed this widest boulevard just below El Obelico....
Despite all that appears negative, it is one of the few cities that deserves the overused term of 'vibrant' (which usually signifies utterly dull), there is an electricity to the City which cannot be explained or duplicated. Maybe the chaos and unpredictability of the city, combined with the supreme 'self esteem' of it's citizens make for the 'never a dull moment' atmosphere.
Question: How does and Argentinian commit suicide?
Answer: He climbs on top of his ego to throw himself into the abyss below him - to death.
A Guinness Record item in one of the suburbs of Buenos Aires - the largest outdoor mural in the world....

New Tango moves....
Jardin Botanico, still an oasis in the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires: birds sing, butterflies flutter, people snooze on benches in the shade of old trees.

Jardin Botanico - the little nymph still watches over her pond of water lilies
Last visit to the iconic Teatro Colon.
After waiting nearly two hours in blistering heat of 36 degrees centigrade, I was proud owner of a ticket to a Chamber Music Concert matinee.
Getting tickets - stand in line to await the scheduled opening of the 'boleteria' at 10:00. By 10:45 the boleteria was still closed for reasons unknown, and definitely unexplained. La 'cola' the waiting line had by now grown to stretch around three sides of the theatre, which is the size of a city block. All sweltering, all wondering, some complaining - but all staying put for the coveted tickets - gratis.

Performers Camerata Bariloche, a string orchestra with spinet.

On the program
Las Cuatro Estaciones (Four Seasons) by Antonio Vivaldi
Suite 'De Los Tiempos de Holberg' by Edvard Grieg

I t was worth every minute of the wait, and every drop of sweat shed onto the burning sidewalks: the Four Seasons were beautifully played, however, the Holberg Suite brought tears of emotion to ones eyes. What a privilege to hear these artists! An added pleasure: sharing this unforgettable emotional music with friends...

And so - the tortilla keeps turning until the end of this week, which will probably be filled to the last hurrah with memorable experiences.