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| Aalborg upon arrival... |
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| Water fountains in Aalborg |
Aalborg at the Limfjord on the northern tip of the Danish
Peninsular was once a Viking stronghold. During the 7th century AD Vikings
settled here, still being pagans, discovered how to put keels on longboats and
went off to pillage, rape and murder anything within reach of their far flung
fields of battle.
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| Jergen Olufsens old house |
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| Jens Bang's House - somewhat larger than Jergen's |
During the Middle Ages Aalborg was part of the Hanseatic
League, when merchandise flowed through its port connecting countries like
Germany, Sweden, England and other parts of Denmark. Then it turned to fishing,
and had a monopoly on the herring trade, which declined after the herring
became decimated. Industry took over the waterfront. Around the late 19th
century the fjord became, through dredging, a passage between North and East of
the Peninsular, instead of a dead end fjord. The waterfront became seedy for a
while, with ladies of ill repute hanging out entertaining labourers, sailors
and – who knows – wealthy merchants and industrialists.
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| Aquavit |
Nothing of that seediness has survived into modern times.
Aalborg is the fourth largest city in Denmark, but with under 200.000
inhabitants it still retains the ambiance of a village, albeit with style,
culture, incredible architecture of both old and new, restaurants, public
spaces to die for, delicious food and – of course – great Danish beer and
Aquavit.
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| Budolfi Cathedral |
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| Small Townhouses with 'garages' for bicycles |
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| Church of Our Lady |
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| Town Archives |
We arrived the Monday after Pentecost (Pfingsten) which is a
National Holiday in Denmark; hence all is locked tight again. But, Prinsendam
is a bit of a rarity as not many ships manage to steam up-fjord to one of the
town’s bridges, which- albeit of the opening kind - block further passage for a
ship this size. We docked in the heart of Aalborg, at the Royal Cruise Berth, at
the first musical fountain in Denmark. Circular pyramids cover an area as large
as a market square, and twice a day the water splashed in different tempi
accompanied by music of George Friedrich Handel.
It is also the start of the main street in town. A tent
served as a terminal building and a temporary fence kept up ‘security’
appearances. Town receptionists handed out brochures covering a selection of
experiences in Aalborg, which the town had put together for the stay of
Prinsendam during a National Holiday. A traditional Danish hotdog stand had
taken up complimentary business beside the disembarkation ramp, and must have
handed out at least 1000 Danish hotdogs to disembarking passengers and a steady
stream of staff and crew, sneaking out for a quick unusual (on Prinsendam)
snack – gratis. There was a steady line up until 5 p.m. when the ship left.
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| Residential Street |
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| Groennings House |
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| One of the town's plazas surrounded y breweries and restaurants |
Wandering into town one cannot escape overwhelming evidence
of Denmark’s well-being economically, socially and culturally. The country
always seems to outrank every other one in livability, life style and living
standards…and the proof is at every corner. People are happy, friendly, safe
and secure. They appear healthy, active and interested. They are well dressed
and rarely obese. No wonder, they walk and bike as part of everyday life. It is
said, that if a Dane does not own a bike he is definitely considered eccentric.
On the other hand, Denmark has kept the Kroner as its currency, and it is said,
that they do not want the Euro, as that would force them to lower their
standards. One is inclined to agree with them confronted with the living
evidence of their remarkable country.
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| Ceiling Frescos in Budolfi Cathedral |
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| Painting in the Cathedral |
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| Old fashioned window panes of rounded glass |
Aalborg has found a genial way to combine its medieval
architectural town scape with ultra modern residential, commercial and cultural
buildings which are solid proof of the world famous Scandinavian design genius.
The designer of the iconic Sidney Opera House, Joern Utzon, originates from
Aalborg, which is proud to have one of his creations –the Utzon Centre – right
on the waterfront (now the pride of Aalborg instead of a blight). It houses –
what else – centre for architectural design. It also houses a beautiful sample
of a Danish Folk boat, inspiration and model for the sturdy Contessa 26 modern
fibreglass sailboat.
Things are made easy for Danes.
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| Park beside Prinsendam |
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| Sleeping Viking |
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| Eric The Red lived here... |
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| Utzon Institute |
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| Danish Folk boat in Utzon Institute |
One may rent a bike by
swiping a card at a bike rental stand, and off one pedals no more than a couple
of Euros poorer. Public spaces are at the same time creative and inviting:
fountains – when not spouting – serve as benches, grassy places serve as
sunbathing spots, wooden or stone seating in street corners are Wi-Fi hotspots,
squares are used for open air restaurants or markets, and the waterfront is
open for people to lounge on ramps or stone sculptures or just hang out without
a mountain of hindrances put into their way. No bicycle helmets either – great
for hairdos and hot days, and nobody is tempted to steal them!
More Later....
