Sunday, May 19, 2013

17 May 2013 Avalon, Catalina Island, California

Street Sign in downtown Avalon, Catalina Island
View from one of Catalina's hills
Cactus in bloom
Avalon Bay with 'Casino' at far right
One of the Wrigley family mansions
Wrigley Memorial and Botanical Gardens
Hill sides in bloom
Busy Bee of Catalina
Avalon Tuna Club, the oldest fishing club in USA
Tiled wall on sea side promenade
Art Deco mural in the entrance of the Casino
Palm trees surrounding the Casino
As they say: Life's a Beach
Road Side plants...
Shopping street in Avalon
Boats at buoys in Avalon Harbour
Catalina Island, a relatively unknown little gem, twenty miles away from bustling metropolis of Los Angeles. Landing in Avalon Harbour (Avalon being the main village on the mountainous island) feels like stepping back in time.
Not quite back to about 7000 years ago, when the Island was already inhabited by a medley of immigrants slowly making their way from Asia down the western shores of the North and South American continent.
Not even back to Colonial times, when in 1542 a Spanish Galleon landed Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo here. This haughty personage ignored the local population and just claimed the new found little paradise for Spain, naming it San Salvador (name of his ship). He only stayed a day, and no other European set foot on the Island until 1602, when Sebastian Viscaino landed on the eve of St. Catherine's fest. He renamed the Island Santa Catalina, the Spanish version of Catherine.
His visit had fatal consequences for the indigenous population, who was wiped out in a very short time by diseases imported by the Spaniards.
One steps back in time to the late 19th century, around 1880, when Californians first discovered this leisure paradise. 1887 saw George Shatto established Avalon. 1889 the oldest fishing club sprang up as the Avalon Tuna Club - still there.
The big jump into fame happened, when chewing gum millionaire William Wrigley bought the whole island. He developed it as a 'Great Gatsby' like resort. Art Deco and Art Nouveau style architecture sprang up, of which the most famous is the 'Casino' which never saw a slot machine or a gambling table, but functioned as a venue for lavish balls attended by flappers and swells - almost in all 12 stories of the round somewhat Moorish looking building. Opulent murals by Gabriel Beckman cover the walls. A charming promenade with tiled fountains, walls, benches and dotted with lofty palm trees lines the shore.
The most famous Big Bands of the times played here. In the ornate movie theatre below the ball room floors, the latest 'talkies' rolled over the silver screen, the first movie theatre built specifically for movies with sound. During the 'silent' Hollywood period, Catalina provided a romantic back drop for 135 silent movies. But, even more, around 500  'talkies' used the Eden like environment as their sets: Treasure Island (1919), The Ten Commandments (1923), Ben Hur (1925) just to name a few.
Marilyn Monroe, Humphrey Bogart, and even Winston Churchill, were frequent vacationers. A herd of buffalo came over in 1929 to put a bit of Wild West into one of the movies shot there - their descendants are still vacationing here.
Apart from the heroes of Hollywood, Mr Wrigley welcomed his very own baseball team for spring training on the island: the Chicago Cubs.
Avalon to this day, has hardly any traffic nor a single traffic light, most people get around in golf carts. Houses have retained their small town character, low slung and narrow, surrounded by greenery, nothing that would disturb the quaint early 20th century feel. Wrigley's mansion high up overlooking Avalon Bay is now an elegant Bed and Breakfast.
The harbour is filled with buoys (first come first served for visitors) and yachts swing in the crystal clear waters. Absolutely no discharge allowed...Glass bottomed boats and submersibles glide over kelp beds and a kaleidoscope of colours of underwater life, often called the Galapagos of California.
One may paddle, swim, dive, snorkel, suntan on the sandy beaches or enjoy a sea side meal and drink all along the boardwalk. About 30 ferry crossings a day, supplemented by helicopter and small aircraft shuttles make it an easy destination for Californians to hop over for a day or stay in one of the many vacation rentals, boutique hotels or lavish beach clubs. Permanent population is about 3000 souls (sitting on top of some very highly priced real estate) and summer tourist crowds swell the body count to around 10.000.
Together with  two friends, we hummed along the outskirts of 'town' in a rented golf cart, a rather hair rising experience at times. There are a few paved roads leading into the rugged mountains and hills of Catalina, most of them a series of perilous looking switchbacks without safety rails, but offering splendid views. Although these little vehicles would not ever exceed the speed limit of 15mph - even going downhill - their basic braking system does not inspire total confidence. So we went exploring up and down and back and forth in the environs of Avalon, enjoying fabulous views, cacti and Eucalyptus covered slopes, the wind in our hair, and a comfortable ride instead of a strenuous hike.
Our designated driver, after bravely chauffeuring her happy cargo for the entire rental time, finally was able to breathe a well deserved sigh of relief, when we parked our limousine back at the now empty rental place downtown pretty Avalon..
As the Grand Finale port of this cruise segment it certainly was the perfect port: lovely scenery, laid back atmosphere, good food and drink, and a lively little quaint sea side town to go with it.
Catalina deserves a lengthier visit, as the Island offers lovely remote mountain paths, quite a bit of wild life, a few 'roads' leading inland and along the Island, and a couple of  REALLY small settlements with small harbours, such as Two Harbour (one restaurant for the whole town), Catalina Harbour, and Isthmus Harbour.