Friday, January 11, 2013

10 January 2013 Puerto Madero

Not quite the other side of the tracks, but for sure the other side of the Dikes of Puerto Madero. Here the better off 1 percent lives, and often works. Glass towers, stylish condo buildings, sky scrapers of the latest design, all backed by a huge natural reserve bordering the Rio de la Plata.
The trouble is, it is so stark, it is life less - at least during the day. Promenades along the Diques (Dikes) are almost deserted, so are the water front cafes...and even the parks located between blocks of buildings. Not a hint of 'graffiti art' on these hallowed walls anywhere.

In the back ground the ICBC tower (no, not the public car insurance outfit of BC, but a Bank), and in the foreground the Fortabat Museum.
The barrel like shape of the museum roof is to commemorate the source of wealth of the owner of the valuable collection of art inside - Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, owner of an immense cement and concrete empire. Maybe her company provided the raw materials for the Puerto Madero buildings?
Well, maybe the sunny side of the waterfront is too hot to linger outside in a promenade bistro...but not a customer in sight.
The old ship yard cranes still tower over the canals....
Puente de Mujeres...supposedly symbolizing a tango move. The light standards provide the appropriate 'gancho' embellishment - tango dancers will understand....
By the way, these light standards are very solid - on the 'other side' where the plebe lives, a few of them keep falling on parked cars, as their based are pure rust, and nothing but miraculous divine intervention keeps them upright until even that fails. Hence a warning: never park underneath a light pole unless you inspect it's base first.
Lovely shaded parks in between high rises, many new ones still under construction.
But, all empty, except for a few roller skaters and skate boarders, who sneak the odd graffiti letters on stone walls and concrete benches. Must be in their genes....
This is NOT graffiti, but a restaurant wall, with official restaurant advertising art.
Across the tracks of the Metrovia train (shut down - no maintenance for speeding bullet kind of cars) is the Customs House, another piece of Belle Epoque architecture...well maintained on this side of the building.
The land side entrance of the Customs House, fronted with a lovely shady park, is not quite as pristine. Here little bushes grow at fifth floor level out of various columns, windows and statues.

Once during a visit to Buenos Aires, I take a bus to Puerto Madero...but the tumultuous 'other side' seems to be more representative of Buenos Aires, than the sterile environment of Madero.