Monday, December 31, 2012


Yes, back in Argentina...

Surrounded by Buenos Aires architecture

and unmistakable patriotism in every ciudadano (Citizen)



Bright sunshine, temperatures around the lower thirties centigrade. Sunday and most shops are closed, but the neighbourhood grocery stores and fruit stands are open. One stocks up...



Then, one tops up the 'SUBE' electronic pass, still in my pocket since last year's stay. 50 pesos, i.e. 10 dollars, buy me 20 rides on the subway, or more on the buses.



The old 'unlocked' cell phone from Canada still works for local calls here.



So off to downtown, heading for the Sunday market along Calle Defensa and San Telmo, a long cobble stone walk from Plaza de Mayo.



First time on the subway, and I received a great introduction: a fight broke out between one busker band and another, probably competing over subway car territorial rights to fleece the riders...Fellow women passengers left the car, I went back to the platform. Train drivers etc separated the combatants, peace returned, all climbed back on the subway and off we went.

Vacant Sube (Subway) car, stage for many buskers...

Photographing this little fellow nearly got me into trouble with a lady passenger...



I photographed a passenger's dog, which must have aroused suspicion with my seat neighbour. First she asked from which country I hailed, then she wanted to know what I photographed...all in Spanish of course. I assured her, that I only captured the 'cachorro', little dog, on film, which satisfied her. After a few Feliz Anos Nuevos we parted friends.



I let the photos of the Sunday Open Air market speak for itself....

Empanadas Grandes, a local delicacy of pastry pockets filled with everything imaginable...

Having a siesta underneath the vending stand...


Icecold Quilmes at the Mifalda Cafe, one has to stay 'hydrated' in this heat.


Music at every street corner

Even the Parillas (open air BBQ) offer live entertainment

Main ingredient for Choripan, Chorizo on Breadroll, Argentinian Hotdog...
one needs music and beer to digest this snack!






Osvaldo and Pochi, both in their late seventies, are still alive and tangoing on Sundays on the Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, where the most famous Antiques Market takes place. Well, P&O almost qualify for priceless antiques.

Osvaldo and Pochi, another year older and still dancing...
Definitely NOT tango shoes



Of course, there has to be a demonstration on Plaza de Mayo. This time it commemorated a terrible tragedy, which happened exactly 8 years ago in Buenos Aires. A disco named Chromagnon burnt down, killing 192 youth which were trapped inside without a chance to escape...the exit doors were locked.

Casa Rosada, the seat of Government, heavily guarded, but with Sunday visitors crowding 'Evita's Balcony'...

Photos of the 192 victims of the Inferno at Chromagnon 30 Dec 2004
For each of the victims - one star in Plaza de Mayo



The Archbishop of Buenos Aires held a commemorative mass in the Cathedral. It was attended by hundreds of youth, relatives of the deceased carrying photos, and the general public. Heartbreaking, to see all these parents, brothers, sisters and other relatives lighting one of 192 candles and walking slowly up the Altar to receive Holy Communion from the Archbishop, who embraced them all.

Every seat in the cathedral is taken, and faithful lean against columns...this elderly gentleman kept talking to himself, gesticulating as if he was making a speech. He was dressed in a formal suit, a heavy coat, and carried two bags....homeless man with style?

Relatives lighting one candle for each victim of the tragic fire at Chromagnon

Walking up the centre aisle with candles and photos of the victims
Apart from the Chromagnon demonstration, there is the perpetual protest against something..
Defend Democracy, Fight Indifference...
Malvinas Veterans (Falkland Island War a few decades ago) still demanding justice after all these years..
Here it says:
The Malvinas are and always will be Argentina
Tell that to the occupants of the Islands, who are overwhelmingly British and want to remain so.
But.....there is oil underneath them thar ocean waves....
The Federales, protecting the citizenship from themselves.

Here are the Chromagnon demonstrators marching onto Plaza de Mayo



Happier images tomorrow....