Sunday, June 22, 2014

St Isaak's Cathedral, St Petersburg, Russia

The gilded dome of St Isaaks Cathedral

St Isaaks Cathedral is one of the largest in Europe, and the largest in St Petersburg. Built between 1818 and 1858 in a neo classical style, it greets visitor with massive ionic granite columns – each chiselled and carved from a single stone and weighing a few hundred tons. An immense gilded dome reaches above the skyline of St Petersburg a forms a shining beacon.
The gilding is the original coating, which was applied as a mix of gold (a couple of hundred kilos) and mercury to copper sheet domed roofing. A number of roofers died of mercury poisoning during the process – the effects of mercury were not yet known. However, the mix has survived a couple of wars – the dome was painted black to camouflage it from bombing attacks. Shells did hit the outside columns, and their marks are still noticeable, as solid granite cannot be patched up.
Solid Granite Columns

Detail of Bronze Portals

Detail on interior of Bronze Portals

The interior is spectacular: every surface is covered with marble, gilding, paintings and marble or wood carvings. Gigantic chandeliers are suspended from the fresco covered ceilings. Being of orthodox faith, there are no benches or chairs – the congregation stands during service.
Richly Decorated Interior



After the Bolsheviks took over Russia in 1917, religion was immediately declared illegal. The truly ‘iconic’ cathedral was ironically changed into a Museum of Atheism, however after the break-up of the Soviet Union it was returned to its original purpose, supplemented now with income from tourist visits.
Coat of Arms of St Petersburg,
Two crossed anchors, one a river anchor and the other a sea anchor, symbolizing St Petersburg location both on a river  (Neva) and the Sea (Gulf of Finland of the Baltic)


Only supported on two hind legs, but with a lead filled tail...equestrian statue of a Tsar

Trust fund kid palace...at least the top layer of it

Expansive squares surround the church, on one of them stands another Imperial Palace, which was a wedding present from one of the Tsars to his daughter. A statue of generous dad, mounted on horseback surrounded by bronze depiction of his four lovely daughters dressed as goddesses stands between the church and the palace. The equestrian statue is one of the very few in the world with only two points of support for the unequally distributed weight of bronze – that being the two hind legs of the rearing horse. The sculptor filled the horse’s tail with lead to give sufficient counterweight to balance the whole business.
The bronze horseman faces the Cathedral and his back is turned to the Palace of the happy bride receiving it on her wedding day. She was so upset, that she would see her dad’s back and not his face upon awakening, refused to ever occupy it. Imperial whims….



One of St Isaak's Portals


Many of the paintings are actually fine mosaics, as can be seen in this portrait