Friday, June 6, 2014

1 June 2014, Mariehamn, Finland

Between Sweden and Finland, Land of the Midnight Sun - almost

Flag of the Aeland Archipelago


Thousands of Islands make up the Archipelago

Most of us have never heard of this little place, one of many islands in the Archipelago of Aeland almost in the middle between Helsinki and Stockholm. Latitude in the sixties, which makes is as far north as Anchorage, Alaska. The Weather Gods smiled on us, after enduring artic cold in places like Talinn, St. Petersburg and Helsinki (more of them after my repeat visit to them during the next two weeks). It felt like spring!
Finnish Welcome for Prinsendam

Rocks, Shallows, small islets are ever where...

Old marker for sailors..

Mariehamn is not exactly a hotspot of tourism, although many Fins and Swedes come over by ferry to enjoy a little island life, however, they probably know the scope on a Sunday and bring a picnic.
Mariehamn lies on the end of a small island, wedged between two shores of the sea. It consists of about 2 short main street and a few tree lined residential avenues. It has a church, a theatre, some shops and a large number of restaurants and cafes, which are all closed on a Sunday (our visiting day), a handful only opens in the afternoons or evening. All shops are closed as well.
To think that a couple of months ago, I went around Cape Horn...

Restaurant Floating Molly's
Open Mon-Fri 9-5
Saturday and Sondays - closed!

So are the shops -closed

So - nothing much to do but enjoy the sun, sniff the scent of blossoming linden trees lining the streets, and walk along the shore-side promenade to an open air museum of shipbuilding (museum and shop closed), stroll deserted main street (inhabitants must have been sleeping off their Saturday night partying), peer into shop windows filled with local crafts or the usual necessities for remote island life and gave the closed museums a cursory glance from the outside. Shopaholics beware – nothing going on here!
Spring in the Far North

Shipbuilding is still going on, albeit on smaller scale - lovely wooden boats 


Out for a turn on the bay

One ice cream vending stand had opened its shutters and one village café as well. Predictably these were almost being overtaxed with the onslaught of Sunday visitors most originating from Prinsendam. Finnish Beer flowed freely, as well as coffee and chocolate.
No, not Anal Retentive - but Entrance to a parking lot!

Centre of Mariehamn on a Sunday

Some lovely quaint places are unfortunately closed in downtown

Typical heart shaped Linden tree leaf

It appeared that summer must bring many sailing and fishing enthusiasts, judging by the many free berths in quite a number of marinas on either shore. One of the local sailing clubs was preparing for a Sunday afternoon regatta. A few intrepid sailors were messing about on their boats. Charter boat companies advertised their services to customers yet to arrive. Ferry Companies kept up a lively to and fro from one of the many ship berths during the whole day.
Ice cream for man and his best friend

Church in Mariehamn

Historic buildings along the main avenue of Mariehamn


Awaiting the summer sailing crowd...

The Island was an important ship building port years ago. One of the surviving ships was tied up just behind Prinsendam, the Pommern. She is a tall masted sailing ship with a cavernous hull, which used to deliver grain to Australia. Today she is a museum.

The Pommern, Prinsendam and three ferries in Mariehamn Harbour

The Pommern

Historic Customs Shed

By sheer luck and aimless strolling in the further reaches of the shores I found that the sailing club had a public restaurant with a sunny inviting terrace, mercifully open and overlooking the ‘sound’. I discovered my spot, enjoyed the sun, peaceful surroundings, as well as a fantastic lunch – probably the only place serving lunch in town.
Empress Maria Alexandrovna of Russia



Mariehamn – albeit shut tight – was a welcome respite after almost non-stop sightseeing for the last week. 
View from the aft deck of Prinsendam