 |
| Port Alberni, at the very end of a fjord like inlet of about 30 miles, is the base of MV Frances Barkley. She is a supply ship, which was launched in 1958 and still delivers daily mail, groceries, tools, tourists and float home dwellers, kayakers, fishing and logging supplies along the entire length of the scenic Inlet. My last fix of British Columbia mountains and sea and sky before heading off to the Buenos Aires and the Pampas, who reminds one more of the flat prairies than undulating landscapes like here. The rain had magically stopped this morning, but low clouds and mist still shrouded the mountains before the sun would rise above the the pine covered slopes. |
 |
| A little chilly still, while we chugged along surrounded by hills and mountains still dreaming through an autumn dawn. |
 |
| Like magic, the sun rose above the hills, and suddenly gloomy dark greens and shadowy blues took on a bright shine. |
 |
| Wilderness, Canadian Style...not much there on land. The odd logging road, a rare dwelling ashore, only accessible by water... |
 |
| Layers of muted colours form the back ground on the 'shady side' of Alberni Inlet. |
 |
| As the usual one way trip from Port Alberni to Bamfield (today's end station) lasts about 3 1/2 hours, passengers and crew need sustenance. A small galley provides hearty breakfasts, snacks and simple luncheons. |
 |
| Closer to the Pacific Ocean the Inlet broadens into an expansive sound, which is filled with groups of small islands. Barkley Sound is a coveted destination for anglers (lots of salmon around here), kayakers and sailors. A remote and unspoiled paradise, never overcrowded... |
 |
| It may be only a small supply whip, however, there is a BAR. Self serve, plastic glasses... |
 |
| Not quite the luxury of an Ocean Liner, but convenient comforts and always a spectacular ocean and mountain view. |
 |
| For hours one drinks in the ever changing scenery of the mountain ranges of Vancouver Island. |
 |
| Canada, almost - but not quite - the farthest western point around here... |
 |
| Bald headed eagles soar in and out of clouds and mists, still hovering above the tree tops. |
 |
| Entering a small side arm of Alberni Inlet to visit the last of the floating Post offices in Canada, located in Kildonan... |
 |
| On the way, one of the hundreds of resident bears grazed on a private property... Small black dot on the left of the grassy area |
 |
| Land: none House: yes Lease: maybe All kinds of regulation govern life here: fore shore leases, native land restrictions, permits for discharge. An annual foreshore lease for temporary residence is around $1200 per annum. Year round residence is officially not allowed. Penalty for not having an annual lease, and staying year round (one has to be tough to face a dismal rain forest winter in this desolation) are about $1000. For some people, the economic choice is quite clear.... |
 |
| Quoting MV Francis Barkley Ship's Log: The backdrop of vegetation covered pilings behind the floating Kildonan Post Office, once supported a fish cannery. Built in 1903, this cannery was known as the Alberni Packing Company and later the Ushucklesath Cannery. As many as four or five hundred people worked here. Ice-making facilities were added to the canning capabilities. Five hundred tons of ice could be stored in the building. |
 |
| No roads around the floating post office, one picks up one's mail via boat or water bicycle. |
 |
| When Wallace Bros. Fisheries took possession of the Cannery in 1910 they named it Kildonan, after their home town in Scotland. BC packers took over in 1928, and operated the cannery until 1960, when it closed down. |
 |
| The old pilings. |
 |
| Present day residents of Kildonan enjoy their remote entrepreneurial life style, and receive mail and supplies on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, when the MV Frances Barkley drops by. |
 |
| The Inlet broadens into a sound, and one is surrounded by mountains 270 and more degrees. |
 |
| A tall fir on a shore side hill is crowned with an eagles nest, the darker 'blob' on the upper right of the tree. |
 |
| Small Islands are now starting to dot the sea scape. |
 |
| Back deck of the Frances Barkley |
 |
| There is a slight ocean swell, and the Frances Barkley rises and falls gently riding it. |
 |
| Destination Port: Bamfield West, a small settlement at the 'end of the gravel road' from Port Alberni. |
 |
| The little village is situated on the tip of a peninsular. Campers, kayakers and hikers roam the many beaches and coves. Bamfield is also the end of the arduous and dangerous 40 km West Coast Trail, which only the most intrepid and experienced hikers undertake after registering with trail control and hoping that nothing untoward will happen to them on the walk. The trail is so remote, is has no road access anywhere, and anyone injured needs to be air lifted out. |
 |
| There is a general store with a view of Bamfield harbour. A small selection of packaged, bottled and canned food, more or less fresh produce, and dairy fills the shelves inside the store. And behind the cash counter, an impressive line up of hard liquor, some wine and beer. |
 |
| We have shore leave for an hour, and the Frances Barkley crosses the harbour to Bamfield East, to deliver and pick up freight. |
 |
| AN attractive board walk lines the Bamfield harbour side. Despite being mid October, flowers are still in abundance. |
 |
| Bamfield's Meermaid. |
 |
| Bamfield rustic garden furniture. |
 |
| Clear ocean waters, filled with crabs and star fish... |
 |
| Cacti on the board walk. |
 |
| Abandoned pilings serve as art gallery |
 |
| It is remote indeed...here a public notice about the future arrival of the 'Flying Doctor'. Consultation hours on Oct 15th - phone ahead for appointment. Weather permitting, of course... |
 |
| A new passenger on the return cruise to Port Alberni. She does this journey about half a dozen times a year and seems to take it lying down. |
 |
| Afternoon and a cloudless sky - almost back in Port Alberni. |
 |
| An incredible day, sunny, clear, calm and filled with beauty and discovery. |
