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| Puerto Madryn - Dock reception dog... |
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| Sea Lions taking siesta on ship's bumpers |
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| Puerto Madryn Skyline under a perfect fall sky |
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| Back in Argentina for a day |
Located on the Golfo Nuevo, Puerto Madryn, Argentina, is a gateway to Valdez Peninsular, where abundant wildlife populates both land and sea.
Right whales, sea elephants, sea lions, Magellan penguins and numerous sea birds fascinate nature lovers. However, one has to visit during the appropriate season in order to witness thousands of penguins raising their chicks, or watch a procession of whales heading for warmer waters to give birth to their young.
Too late for the penguins, and too early for the whales, I limited myself to watching the sea lions who used the pier's giant bumpers for their siestas.
The only other mammal around the dock was a small black dog, who tried to befriend every passenger by trotting along at his heels until they reached the bottom of the gang way, where the inevitable good bye took place. On to the next passenger..
There is a dog aboard, about the size of a large rat, but much fuzzier. He watched from his carry on bag hanging from the back of his owner, as passengers entered and left one of the ship's elevators. Rumor has it, that he is a 'medical' dog, raising some kind of alarm when his owner gets into distress.
Life aboard ship reflects general economizing in the cruise industry. Cappuccinos after dinner which were usually complimentary, cost now 1.75 a cup (marketing explanation with a really convincing spin says it is offering now better coffee beans - from America). However, to make up for it, the ship offers complimentary iced tea....to my recollection that was available throughout the ships 24/7 since I can remember. Staff has learned to multi task: instead of a dance instructor, stage performance give a short video of a 'dancing with the stars' performance and then demonstrate a small part of the routine to passengers, inviting them to 'compete' at the end of the 'lessson'. Shore excursion staff give talks on various subjects, whereas in 'the good old times' university lecturers would hold forth on an interesting variety of subjects. The captain's welcome reception is reduced to a 5 minute welcome aboard, accompanied by half a glass of champagne ONCE at dinner time (to reduce the number of attendants I suppose and the cost of champagne) instead of the rather festive reception line for all passengers - in two lots - topped by a chatty speech and introduction of staff and crew.
Even the gym is affected, now HAL is offering 'inside bike rides' at $12 a session - I wonder when use of the treadmills is going to cost.
Cooking classes - cost. Pilates, Yoga - cost. Stretching classes - gone.
The Canaletto restaurant with table service, an Italian themed partition to the Lido buffet, used to be a cost free alternative to casual buffet dining - now it costs $15 to eat the same pasta, which the buffet offers free of charge...hmmm. What next?
With cruise price competition at a fever pitch, and a need to fill ever increasing numbers of passengers berths of ever larger monster ships - 'small' ships like HAL 800-2200 passenger vessels really have to cut overhead to be even in the market.
From a passenger's perspective - the mystique of some understated 'luxury' is definitely disappearing in a hurry. The clientele reflects this shift in other ways as well, Formal Night sees people in flip flops and gym pants (some admittedly with 'glitter') instead of elegant attire. Why not, on our last formal night, some women even took off their flip flops in the Ocean Bar, resting their naked feet on the settees to enhance their 'comfort level' to even more relaxing heights.
Back to Madryn...
Puerto Madryn is Argentina's second largest fishing port, and is home to the country's first aluminum plant.
The name 'Madryn' is Welsh. Madryn's founder was Love Jones Perry, Baron of Madryn (Wales).He lead 150 Welsh immigrants to settle here in 1865, ergo a very young settlement.
Passengers enjoyed a 4.75 pesos to $1US exchange rate aboard ship, somewhat different from the 'blue dollar' rate of 8.75 pesos to $1US in Argentina's land based Consultorios.
Buenos Aires province experienced a fatal deluge. It rained so hard in a very short time (155mm), that low laying areas in various cities were flooded waist high, 55 people lost their lives, one of them a Subway worker, who was electrocuted at his work post below ground.
Governments are pointing fingers at each other...storm sewers are plugged and insufficient, maintenance minimal, emergency assistance or compensation for the thousands of people who lost all their belongings - the stuff of dreams.
Next stop - Punta Arenas in Chile...
PS I am sitting in the Exploration Cafe library on the ship, and we suddenly experience a deluge of our own....some pipe must have broken, as we have a somewhat odorous waterfall adorning the middle of the library. Workers wear face masks, strategically placed buckets prove insufficient, and the water level rises above the fuzz of the carpets - time to get out before getting electrocuted....
Off to two days at sea - Albatrosses are accompanying the ship.
Off to two days at sea - Albatrosses are accompanying the ship.
