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| Wall painting of hooded woman. These capes were worn until about 1930. Date back to Flanders fashions of ancient history. |
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| Cafe Sport, commonly known as Pete's Cafe |
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| The Bar in Pete's Cafe |
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| Sample of Wall Painting by passing boats |
6 May 2012, Horta, Azores
Horta is situated on Fayal, one of the middle islands of the Azores. The island was named Fayal because an abundance of Myrtle covered the island at the time of its discovery (15th Century). Portuguese mistook it for Beech wood (another botanical error, just like it happened when the Azores were first named) which is Faial in Portuguese.
The island is mountainous, volcanic calderas topping the multi hued lush green slopes. Greens and blues of vegetation such as cedar, juniper, beech, ferns and moss, as well as pasture and bamboo fencing combine pleasantly with the many marine shades of ocean and small lakes.
One of the highest is Cabeco Gordo (fat head) at 1,067 meters altitude. A perfectly shaped volcanic island is Fayal's nearest neighbour. Named Pico, it provides an ever metamorphosing subject for photographers, as atmospheric conditions constantly change it's dramatic appearance.
Cattle, Farming and Fishing are the prime industries on this small spot in the ocean, no larger than 15 miles long and 10 miles wide. Locals produce delicate straw embroidery on tulle, flowers made from fish scales, crochet lacework in Flemish and Portuguese traditional styles, miniature woodcarvings and scrimshaw work.
An antique collection of genuine whalebone scrimshaw, fostered by the whaling industry in earlier times, is on display at harbour-side Cafe Sport (aka Peter's Cafe). It is a popular gathering place, allegedly for locals and transient sailors, however, today the placed was packed to the burgee covered rafters with ship's passengers, who enjoyed the last on-shore opportunity to indulge in freshly caught fish and good local - and affordable - local beer and wine.
We had anchored off the fishing and pleasure boat marina, which was packed with boats rafted up three and four deep. The news of near by (relatively) Ponta Delagada's brand new and vacant facility has not quite penetrated to this haven. What makes this marina especially interesting, is the personal artwork of hundreds, if not thousands transient sailboat crews, who have tied up here over the years. The breakwater, docks, piers, harbour walls, stone stairs were all covered with paintings of boats, sea monsters, rogue waves, meermaids, pet portraits, inspiring messages and crew names, dates, home ports and boat names providing an open air living history of the small but important sailboat port. Boats hail from anywhere in the world, and some seemed to have returned to the Azores many times during multiple global circumnavigations, transatlantic races or 'pleasure' Ocean crossings. Brave souls indeed! After personally experiencing the Atlantic at its more lively times, whipped up by gale force winds into huge travelling liquid mountains and valleys, from the heaving decks of an ocean liner, I can imagine how it may feel on a smaller boat. Relentless scaling of watery cliffs, toppling over a spume whipped crest and crashing into deep troughs swell after swell, sometimes for days, until storms abate.
Quite a large area of the port is dotted with kiosks, where one may arrange whale watching trips (resident whales hang out here) or scuba diving excursions, or pleasure cruises to nearby Pico. Shipwright's stores line the harbour, and boats are propped up on cradles in ship repair yards. It is said, that one may acquire used sailboats at attractive prices here, the ones that were 'abandoned' by owners after sobering marine experiences.
I made my usual rounds of the little tranquil town - Sunday - and clambered up steep back alleys, strolled on black volcanic beach, entered a couple of convents and churches built in typical Manueline style, frightened a few dozen lizards off their sun-kissed basalt walls, and finished up in said Pete's Bar for a last shore based refreshment.
A tranquil, serene and lovely port to close off a somewhat marathon itinerary of thirty Ports of Call in a sixty four day journey. Now off to a six day transit of what is left of the distance across the Atlantic to Fort Lauderdale, and with that time to write about the wonders of Santorini, Venice and Barcelona, three of the most beautiful ports of call of the entire cruise....
So, hang in there...with luck satellite internet coverage may last the distance.
