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| Definitely in Greece...new Alphabet to learn |
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| Antique theatre on slopes of Acropolis |
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| Pinacotekh |
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| Columns of the Acropolis |
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| Temple Statues on the Aropolis |
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| Acropolis - A Work in Progress |
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| Pediment on the Parthenon |
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| Model for Corinthian Column decoration |
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| The Grand Stadium of Athens, where the first Marathon Runner died after his epic run |
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| Remnants of Temple of Zeus |
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| Changing of the Guards at the Monument for the Unknown Soldier |
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| Not a tassle out of place, and never a smile |
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| Memorial to fallen Protester |
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| Icon in one of the Greek Orthodox churches |
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| Patriach strolling in Athens |
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| One of the many past occupiers of Athens |
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| Freeze on an antique tower |
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| Orthodox Chapel |
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| The backway dwon from the Sacred Mount of Acropolis |
Almost two days in Piraeus next door to the Capital of ancient Hellas and modern Greece, classical Athens.
Piraeus means 'the place over the passage' and refers to the 7 mile long walls which connected the Port of Piraeus to the Acropolis of Athens. Piraeus used to be just a rocky island (called Mounichia, now Kastella) separated from the mainland by low lying land usually flooded, and used as salt fields whenever it dried up. The low lands were called Halipedon, salt field. They silted and dried up over time, and were safe to pass in the early classics, when Piraeus assumed importance as a deep water harbour.
It's a busy harbour in three sections, two are for the Navy and one for Commerce and Tourism. Instead of walking along an ancient wall, one now takes an electric train, which takes one to centre Athens within 20 minutes.
Sailing into Piraeus one could espy the far away Acropolis rising above the Piraeus and Athens skyline. The sun was shining, the temperature 'Mediterranean' in spring.
I had booked a quickie tour - a drive through downtown Athens and a walk through the Acropolis. At best one gets a quick orientation of how far everything is from everything else one 'must see', and a glimpse of the 'must-sees' where a glimpse suffices.
Case in point, the Olympic Stadium of old (and used again during the latest modern Olympic Games in Athens). It is certainly impressive with it's seating capacity for 60.000 fans of Antique Games, of which there were many to keep the citizens entertained. It's major claim to fame is the fact that at this very spot ended the original Marathon run, as opposed to 'race'. After running the whole long distance between the battlefield of Marathon (where Greece just had fought the Persians) and the Capital of Athens, the Greek messenger expired after uttering just two words to the Powers that Were: We Won! he said, and exit left for the hero. Well, these were the days before sponsored paid pre-event training, and the poor chap paid for it.
The Acropolis (High Place): the best known ancient edifice of Athens! It sits on top of a hill, which overlooks the city, and is only accessible from one side - all others are steep cliffs. It was built/re-built during the Golden Age of Pericles, dedicated to the Protector-Goddess Athena, and to this day remains one of the ultimate masterpieces of harmony and perfection of architecture. Although thousands of visitors make the pilgrimage to the ancient sacred site, one may still find the odd quiet corner away from the never ending procession of humanity in search of the best photo angle.
The perfect columns of the Parthenon, known and admired across the world, have undergone several 'reconstructions', and are still being dismantled and rebuilt with parts being replaced by replicas (marble freezes i.e. which were succumbing to pollution). The ancient Greeks kept the segments of the columns together by pouring soft lead into pre-cut holes. 20th century restaurateurs tried to improve that link and exchange it for cement and steel rods. The latter promptly rusted/expanded, the cement decayed etc etc. and the columns started to crack after surviving for 2 Millennia with the 'old' technology. Now the columns are taken apart again, and re-built with titanium connections.
The Greeks were as fond of literature and music as the Romans after them, their Herculean Amphitheatre and the Dionysian Amphitheatre provided plenty of room for almost daily readings, shows, concerts and debate.
During the Sixties, when I last walked around the rock strewn expanse of the unimproved Parthenon, it still had it's freezes, it's pediments (the triangular pieces at the sides of the 'roof), some of it's statues and limitless open access wherever one desired to explore. It also looked as then as it does on the postcards now. Not so any longer, all is cordoned off, parts of the structures and temples are dismantled, and cranes and tractors, jackhammers and welding guns are everywhere, and the Parthenon still - after 2500 years - remains a work in progress.
The grounds are perfectly maintained, well groomed paths lead up to the colossal main Gate, the Propylea, where one is greeted not by Athens feral cats, but by much more numerous Athens feral dogs (all fed quite well). The Pinacotheca and a small Temple of Athena Nike (sneaker manufacturers use her fame as speedy and flying runner, and the first Marathon guy might have survived using them) flank the gate before one passes on to the Erectheion (maiden pillars). Six Caryatids (copies of the original marble maidens) hold up what remains of the roof. As mentioned, the Parthenon needs a little imagination but what remains of the graceful columns bears witness to it's former (and possibly restored future) glory and perfection.
On the second day, I used the electric train to reach downtown Athens, at Monastitaki station - pickpocket heaven. One holds on to ones goodies...
One may wander to the Temple of Zeus which is guarded by Hadrian's Arch. Hadrian built it in 132 A.D. The temple of Zeus was once the largest in Greece, only 13 of its 104 columns remain, but they are as graceful and elegant as the ones of the Parthenon.
Athens’s Plaka district, most fashionable and lively to this day, spreads out under the sacred Acropolis. One stumbles over ancient monuments at every corner. I followed my instincts and found myself on the cliffy side below the Acropolis, somehow half way up, and threaded my way through white painted narrow stairs, which looked like access to someone's private roof, until I descended back where 'the road finished'. What begun there was the pre-tourist corner of Plaka, with one of the most delightful Greek Tavernas hidden away on a miniscule plaza allowing glimpses of antiquity above and looking like a place on a remote Greek Island. No better place to enjoy the afternoon sun, savour some of the famously tasty Greek cuisine with a drop of Greek wine, with no other company but a couple of Greek Seniors playing eternal games of Domino. Perfection!
Modern Athens does not show 'Austerity Measure' daily life. Shopping streets are crowded, stores offer the latest fashions, cafes and trattorias are filled with customers.
Tourism seems as strong as ever, visitors promenaded in droves through the old Agora (Market Place) surrounded by green parks, Forums, Libraries, Temples and Versailles like National Gardens. Syntagma Square opposite the Tower of the Unknown Soldier crowded up for the semi-hourly Changing of the Guard.
It is a high honour to be chosen as a guard (minimum height 6 feet), their uniform consists of dark jacket, wide skirt, cap with tassel (each strand in perfect order), stockings and shoes with large Pompons. They march in a kind of goose step, which is performed in dignified and painstakingly slow motion....must play havoc with their muscles.
On Syntagma Square, wreath and flowers gave witness to a victim of civil unrest not long past, when Greece experienced political upheavals due to the grave economic situation. However, musicians and street vendors, as well as patrons of surrounding cafes enjoyed the glorious spring day.
Athens, cradle of Western Philosophy and Culture....definitely a city to revisit...one wishes to dig out Socrates, Pericles, watch plays of Trojan Heroes, listen to Operas like Electra, and reread myth of Ulysses and the whole bunch of oh-so-human Greek Deities.
