This love makes itself visible, even when visiting local museums: hammered silverware is crafted into halters, neck-laces for horses, stirrups, riding whip handles, to adorn the beloved Criollo horse, and finely worked silver belt buckles, knife sheaths and handles, hat bands and mate cups and bombillas (the silver straw to drink) to adorn the gaucho whilst he proudly works his matched team of horses, the tropilla, his wealth and his working tools.
Not much in terms of silver ware for mujeres, women, as they did not feature too much in gaucho social life, while he wandered the Pampas too much in search for work, or being conscripted into the cavallery of the government of the time.
Gauchos still work as farm hands, their skills enable them to perform just about any duty on an estancia.
So I headed out - by bus - less than two hour ride away from Buenos Aires, took accommodation in San Antonio de Areco (more about that later) and hoofed it towards Estancia El Ombu (Ombu is a type of typical huge Pampas tree) to smell the country air in 'el campo'.
300 hectares of grass lands, herds of Angus and other cattle, 60 horses of various breeds, many of them Criollos, about 20 dogs of various breeds, chickens, sheep, the odd burrowing owl, ospreys, song birds, a picture perfect 'estancia' building with a number of working 'sheds' - all in romantic tile roofed colonial style. A large veranda around the main building, cool colourful floor tiles, comfortable settees, shady Ombu trees, and oak trees, one of which must have been severeal hundred years old.
A small vegetable garden to supply the Estancia kitchen with fresh herbs and vegetables, a water-lily covered pond beside a row of poplars, two swimming pools, tastefully furnished guest rooms...pretty luxurious even for the most discriminating travellers.
Tree lined drive way leading from the dirt road (only slightly muddy from past thunderstorms) to several acres of lawn and gardens surrounding the brick and stucco main building.
The quiet pond, with its own lotus flower covered island and a tiny wooden bridge to reach it, invited to intimate reflection and meditation.
A small flock of sheep slumbered in the midday heat sheltered by a shady tree.
And horses - horses everwhere. Most of them grazed in the open Pampas beyond the buildings, many were coralled in shady paddocks awaiting their mounts for the day, or their carriage passengers.
Always alert, observing his surroundings with an intelligent eye - the Criollo horse.
The Argentinian working saddle, a combination of various layers of saddle tree, coverings and a soft comfortable sheep skin, beats any Western, Jumping or Dressage saddle for comfort. Despite being almost like an upholstered easy chair, ability to control the horse through weight and leg aids is not sacrificed.
Needless to say, that I mounted one of these Criollos for a leisurely ride through El Ombu: passing through farm gates, crossing small concrete bridges, edging around flooded areas in the pasture, hugging a fence with burrowing owls perching sleepy eyed on posts, skirting around flocks of what looks like ospreys, mingling with steers, cows and calfs, rounding herds of horses with foals...nothing upsets one's mount. He is used to everything around the Estancia, as he never ever spends a night inside a stable and is familiar and tolerant of any 'unusual' situation. A much more laid back horse - no spooking, no fighting amongst herd mates, no health issues, and prepared for any situation work or environment serves up.
Loved it - if I ever get another horse, a Criollo it will be...and it will be allowed to be 'a happy horse' amongst horses instead of a pampered people pet.
Plenty of sulkies around to explore the estancia on wheels instead of on hoofs.
The guest vehicle...still without a 'motor' which was being hitched up later...
Remembering coach driving lessons decades ago....your truly is driving the guests around with 'Nicoleta' pulling the coach in a tireless easy trot, happy in her work and totally unflappable.
Back at the Estancia building, part of the dog population is greeting some riders who are returning from a hack.
..whilst one lazy member of the Estancia dog pack is taking an early siesta under the Ombu tree.
And, we meet a living legend - literally. Mosco Pereira, an old gaucho veteran, who still works in his chosen profession at El Ombu. He is seventy years now, walks with a distinct bend in his spine, thin, gaunt, but with a lively smile and a glint in his rheumy eyes...
He is an 'old hand', so old, that he features in Argentina's classic gaucho poem and novel, Don Secunda Sombra, by Ricardo Guiraldes.
Apart from all his other estancia duties, he also accompanies guests on Estancia rides.
And here are the youngsters, slipping right into Estancia life, learning to be 'domadores', horse trainers just like old Mosco, from the moment they can stand up - or sit, as one needs to do on a horse.
Mosco might be slowly succumbing to a bent back, but he still wears his classic gaucho gear, including money belt and knife, and a weather beaten gaucho hat. He probably has been thrown by many untamed horses, but stuck to the backs for many more. He probably started his tough gaucho life, when still a little kid, and continues working, but has given up the 'doma' part - breaking in of young horses. Demasiado viejo, he said, too old.
His hands are fine, but with gnarled fingers, who have held horse reins every day of his life, and strummed guitar strings just as often. Every gaucho is a poet and singer at heart, and telling the story of their life and experiences in song is part of their long and venerable tradition.
So Mosco sang for us, some of his haunting tunes, telling of hard work, loves gained and lost, tropillas collected and lost through card games, and the circle of a fleeting life....no longer time left to find love again, he sang....
Photos and articles of Mosco, celebrating his considerable achievements and honoured status of a true gaucho and man of character...
There is a lifetime of experience and a huge heart of kindness in the expression of his eyes....
Which seems to inspire many painters to capture him on canvas...a modest, shy man, still working and probably continuing with his work until he is called to higher duty...
Lunch awaits...tables set under the leafy canopy of the great Ombu.
The Parilla man, preparing meats, poultry and sausages for the asado, the typical Estancia BBQ.
Estancia Sausage dog who has escaped being served up well done....
Everything is slowly grilling away in the 'asado'....no gas BBQ here, it has to be real wood, real grills, and hot bricks...
Pablo, gaucho, ranch hand, horse trainer, tourist guide and - table assistant. Here he serves up the first course - chorizo and blood sausage. To be followed by chicken and beef - all grilled on the huge parilla.
After lunch, Pablo demonstrates his training of his Criollo horse, which is five years old, and in training with him since 2 1/2 years. Note, there is no halter.
He rode under perfect control, with his horse relaxed and quiet.
Then he and his horse went through a number of maneuvres, which are hard to believe, that a horse would ever trust anyone enough, or be accommodating enough to execute.
Here, he has made the horse lay down on the lawn, then he slowly turned it on his back by manipulating his legs, gently - with the horse just laying back and enjoying it. No halter, no stress, just gentleness and infinitive skill.
Why not straddle him upside down? Pablo hung his Boina, the Gaucho cap, on the horses hind foot for the moment. Just with gentle stroking, the horse lets his gaucho manipulate his legs into any position without the least resistance.
We have Mounties kissing their horses (and making the funny news); here is a gaucho exchanging a 'beso' with his buddy.
The horse was so tame and accommodating, people could lay down beside him and take a snooze on his neck.
And off he goes looking one with his horse, which still obeys every aid - without a halter.
Whilst a couple of Percherons look on...
Here is Pablo's horse, with his favourite friend, decorating the lawn in front of one of the Estancia's swimming pools.
A day here flies by. Another stroll around the Estancia's veranda...
The terrace invites to another refreshment al fresco...
and then the sun begins to set on the far end of the water lily pond. Time to leave...
