Tuesday, February 28, 2012

28 Feb 2012 - Despedida de San Telmo y Buenos Aires




San Telmo cafe






The old municipal jail in San Telmo - now a museum, entry gratis





Jail Pharmacy - the odour of the many powders and lotions still lingers acridly in the air.






Cabildon Jail - replica of a cell





Accommodation for transients in striped suits.





The bell tolled probably for quite a few of the old inmates





Entry hall to 'private quarters' for male prisoners, who were allowed conjugal visits.




Wall sculpture in front of the 'privacy room' - just in case the poor prisoner had forgotten what it is all about.




Church of San Telmo, adjoining the prison - which originally was a sacred site: A Jesuit Cloister.




The neighbourhood of San Telmo was stricken by a Yellow Fever epidemic in 1871 - here a plaque commemorating the heroic efforts of people in San Telmo during the 'Dantesque Contortions' of the plague.




For anyone who has not made the connection San Telmo is the same Saint who is famous for Saint Elmos fire.




Baroque Entrance to San Telmos church.




And - Carlito Gardels 'replica' still proclaims that 'Gardel Lives'!




Oswaldo y Pochi, another year older, still dance Tango on a couple of square meters of ply-wood in Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo.



The Antique Fair, a Sunday attraction of Plaza Dorrego still sells the same type of copper pots.




...and coloured glass vases....




with a few free tango shows in surrounding restaurants rounding the picture...




..and tango hats for the tourists, to make them feel authentic...




...and old neck bells of 'madrinas' (herd mothers of Gaucho horse teams) living out their last days in a vendor's stall until purchased by anybody but a Gaucho.



The traditional purchase at San Telmo's antique market: Old Soda dispensers...



One finishes the day off at Bar Seddon, another 'bar notable' of Buenos Aires, which seems unchanged since donkey's ages. However, nowadays, it is a tourist haven, a place one has to tick off the 'places to see' list. So - I saw it. Had a 'gaseosa' and a couple of empanadas, which were not quite as tasty as the ones of my neighbourhood bakery.

To go or not to go to Tango...that was the question. But, after one of the 'carritos' (vendor's carts) driving into the back of my leg, I thought it may be advisable to forego tango. Not much damage to talk about...


Hasta Luego Argentina, Hasta Luego Buenos Aires....I hope to return again. Crazy country, crazy city, crazy people - but - ever so captivating and fascinating.

Sitting at Ezeiza Airport of Buenos Aires, waiting for my departure to snowed-in, chilly, ever so civilized and quiet British Columbia. It will be quite a challenge to listen to the sounds of silence when going to bed, instead of falling asleep to a background sound of garbage trucks, neighbourhood fiestas, next door folkloric concerts, upstairs TV programs, cars crashing around the corner, and police car sirens.

OK - off to nearly 24 hours of homeward aerial trek....












































27 Feb 2012 - Buenos Aires - starting to say Ciao!


Las Cardones - a typical 'pena' gaucho pub, across the street from my apartment. Raul Palma and his band gave an unforgettable performance of 'Folklorico' to a packed house. Squeezing room only, even at the back of the place near the bar.


Entry door to a city edifice - a slip of paper suggested to 'press the button' to gain entrance


Tourist souvenirs made of the national gem stone, Rodocrosita.



Paula y Orlando - my favourite tango maestros.




Villa 32, a slum behind Retiro Railway Station.




Silversmithing, artesan weaving, leather trinkets....



The national obsession with 'colas' - enhanced Samba Bums.



Wall painting in Palermo.



Guard dog in Palermo Soho



Funky Buenos Aires mural...


Almost the last day here in Buenos Aires....but, with luck one may return again.

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Jardin Japones - Buenos Aires

On a day, where Buenos Aires weather mimics a misty Japanese afternoon, why not go to the Jardin Japones, quite a large park within the already large park system at the edge of Palermo.
Serenity awaits....


Opened in 1967, it is a green oasis filled with ponds, trimmed miniature trees, quietly splashing waterfalls, bridges and urns. The Japanese Royal Couple Emperor Akihito and Princess Michiko presented the city with this plaque to commemorate their visit to Buenos Aires.


Stark simplicity instead of ornately designed parks and gardens of Buenos Aires.



Definitely a polular attraction. I stood in line to pay my entry fee (16 pesos - about $3.50). Once at the booth, a sign advised: exact change only accepted.

Well, I handed over my only note of 100 pesos. The Japanese looking ticket seller took one look at me, and decided that I was a 'jubilario' - old enough to be allowed gratis entry. That solved the 'exact change' challenge.


Koi as big as baby whales, being fed of course with 'comida de peces' fish food, available for purchase. However, it is 'Prohibited to touch the Fish'.



Who would want to.. maws as big as JAWS!

The little Ibis kept fishing for goodies being stirred up by these monster Koi.


Granite Samurai


Bird bath...Kormorant resting on a stone lantern


On this day, the Japanes Gardens were filled with Japanese Cartoon figures. Teams of youngsters competed for the most genuine look-alike of the hundreds of characters in these comic strips. The artist is quite famous, and his original paintings sell for small fortunes.

Apparently this cult of mimicking the characters - which are as varied as a crazy imagination can create them - has a huge following in Japan, and, as I found out, a pretty sizeable one here in Buenos Aires.


The costumes, make up and wigs are exact copies of the strip's gutter-glitter dolls, warriors, animals and science fiction creations.



Transforming into a Samurai, armed with a cell phone. Maybe a few more Empanadas would help to but some warrior bulk on this Argentino!


Two 'dolls' in all their finery, mirror images of the drawings down to even the 'cute' toys.



Padded Belts, stay up stockings, fingerless long gloves, huge coloured wigs, and cute bunny toys...a princess doll.




Even comic strip facial features and hair styles are copied...



Where is the nether part of this costume?



The 'doll shoots' happen everywhere in the garden - pavillions, bridges, lawns....here a Christmas doll, with crown, mini antlers, red fur trimmed cape, and high boots.


The 'medical team'


..and the wolf man...



Elaborate to the last detail...even the way the fringe is brushed over the nose.



Style of painting, which is used as a starting point for costumes.


Typical comic figure used on the advertising flyer for this year's 'doll' competition.