Half Moon Cay, previously known and charted as Little Salvador, is a small Island in the Bahamas owed by Holland America Lines. 35 people live there now. HAL built facilities along the miles long crescent shaped beach, an expanse of powdery white sand, backed by native shrubbery, palm trees, a few Bougainvillae (not native, but adding colour to the Wedding Chapel - people get married here). The windward side surrounds a large lagoon, ideal for 'sting ray encounters', fishing, and kayaking. A little network of tiled paths lets cyclists (cycles for rent) pedal around the couple of miles distance. About three dozen horses carry bathing suit clad riders around a little scrub covered hill and into the ocean for a splashy 'mounted swim'. Thousands of beach lounges, like supine soldiers, fill the talcum powdery incline of beach up to a row of dark blue clam shell sergeants, and a few brightly coloured (rentable) commander beach cabanas. The army of beach accommodations awaits today another army of possibly 4400 passengers tendering from the Nieuwe Amsterdam and Eurodam (including about 900 kids) onto the 'private secluded' island. The influx of bathers, riders, snorkelers and tanners soon turns the neat blue rows into a colourful maelstrom of lounges and sun seekers.
Water crystal clear, sun pleasantly hot, beach bars opening up, inside the fake pirate ship (a disco) one of the ship's band sets up, hobie cats rigged (50 dollars an hour), parasailing warming up the boat motors, horses saddled...the beach break is on.
So is the 'village'...a little post office, a number of shops, last minute shore excursion office, bathrooms, bar (of course) and trolley stop (to carry the lagoon excursion participants half a mile to the activity center)
I went with the flow, and a little further - on foot. Along the mostly tiled path parrallel to the beach, where 'misting stations' invited the really sweaty for a quick cooling spray, beach massage stations seduced with relaxing kneadings (at a stressful cost), past a number of shaded benches and strategically located discreet bathrooms offering otherwise needed relief.
Obviously the latter were not strategic enough, as some of our more macho youthful visitors, obviously blinded by expansive displays of nubile female flesh, found it neccessary to water quite a number of palm trees. Ever so often, I had to halt in my little trek, to direct my gaze heavenward to admire the upper branches of said coconut palms until - literally - the coast was clear.
Far enough from the Madding crowd, I found a few empty shaded lounges and retired into a leafy shade, admired the emerald and turquoise of the shimmering sea, and conversed with some mourning doves, who scavenged the whitest and finest sand for invisible remnants of edibles underneath the lounges.
I shared my remote little corner with a few more people - at least until BBQ time when all and sundry headed for food.
I have no idea how these ships manage the logistics to supply, prepare, deliver and clean up a BBQ for 4400 - from the salads, buns, vegetables, fries, ketchup et al, ice cream, cookies, water, juice, coffee, napkins, plates and utensils for a horde like that. But - they do it (taking everything neccessary ashore, and taking everything - including waste - back).
Fortunately, BBQ's do not tempt me at the best of times, so I was able to marvel at the line ups for every food item - served with the usual serenity and friendly smile by our ship side Indonesian and Philipino crew - without having to shuffly along any of the lines.
As all reports after organized events claim: A GOOD TIME WAS HAD BY ALL.
Turning right instead of left towards 'the village and developed beach' after disembarking from the tender, one reaches a deserted stretch of pristine beach - unraked, un-landscaped, without shade, interspersed with sharp rocky outcrops - still unspoilt by human hand. Visiting it is not exactly encouraged by the powers that be (nothing is sold here) but blissfully quiet. Just bring your own parasol! You need it.
Later that night, at dinner with the Environmental and Safety Officer hosting our table, we heard, that staff on shore leave from the two anchored ships was strongly discouraged to join the beach lunch ashore....their lunching needs would have added another 1000 extra hot dogs and hamburgers to the load.
I will be back (as Schwarzenegger said) on this island during this journey, and will check out the equines at the far end of the beach....not to ride them, but as a reason for a good long hike to see, whether they still have succulent hay, lots of water and shade as I had noticed on previous trips....my plan for a future shore excursion.
