Guatemala borders on both, the Pacific and the Caribbean. Volcanoes dominate the landscape in the West, where coffee and sugar plantations provide raw materials to McDonalds and Coca Cola. Here in the East the climate favours the growth of bananas and pine apples, providing raw materials for Del Monte, Dole and Chicita. Only the best produce is exported, second choice stays in the country.
Driving from the industrial port of Santo Tomas through the lush country side to Quirigua, a Mayan archeological site about 100km inland, one passes one cattle ranch (finca) after another. Horses, often used instead of motorcycles or cars, graze among the Brahmins, as well as sheep and goats. Every village has live stock markets (A vende - toros).
People are poor, dwellings are humble.
Everyone, however, is proud of their ancestral Mayan heritage, albeit Spanish and Amerindian cultures have blended with the original Mayans. Hence the impetus to preserve Mayan temples, altars, cities in various parks and archeological sites. Quiringua, only partly excavated, is famous for the many stone stalae and zoomorphs, which are exquisitely carved. Many represent Mayan kings, in full powerful regalia and regal stance, with their individual feats and achievements eternalized in mysterious glyphs, which have been only partially deciphered so far.
Quirigua, as so many other Mayan cities, was abandoned suddenly about 160 AD because of overpopulation and the resulting problems. From here the Mayans moved to Copan, allegedly one of the richest cities of their empire and in existence since at least 1000 BC. Wealth was not, as many assume, measured in gold but in imperial jade. Some of the most significant ancient jade treasures were unearthed here in Guatemala.
It is still being unearthed in jade mines, and appears in forms of carvings and trinkets in tourist stores.
Colourful textiles, embroidery, pottery and carvings show Mayan influence. Eager artisans sell them in specially constructed markets near cruise ship terminals, archeological destinations, and - of course - world heritage sites like Antigua, one of the most picturesque towns in Guatemala. Some artisans travel from one coast to the other (an eight hour drive) to be present when a cruise ship arrives in either Puerto Queztal or Santo Tomas de Castilla.
Despite political 'unrest', high unemployment, low average income, and rising crime rate in the capital city of Guatemala City, people are friendly and warm, smile easily and love to enter into conversation, especially if one tries to converse in Spanish.
Guatemalans produce the 'best cerveza del mundo' according to the local connoisseurs. Gallo, the rooster, is the name of the brew. Roosters were the sacrificial animal of choice for the Mayans, now the macho chickens have lent their sacred name to the potent cerveza of choice.
